Well, I do want to fix my keyboard so that it works 100 per cent. I will probably take you up on your very generous offer.
On Thu, 21 Mar 2024 at 03:58, Brian K. White <[email protected]> wrote: > If you can't tease the switch apart to clean up the inside, I can send > you one. > I got a set of 5 from ebay a couple years ago but only used one. > There is a guy selling them right now too, but only in sets of 20 for $40 > > https://ebay.com/itm/196074860932 > > Actually, if you send me your bad switch I bet I can repair it with my > bad switch, because on mine the contacts work fine, the stem is broken > so it can't hold a keycap. If your step is good, then together that's a > working switch. > > Kinda silly to repair a single keyswitch but, but aren't we all kinda > silly? > > I don't remember where I got the keycap puller, maybe came in an ifixit > kit? Maybe from a local microcenter? > The keycap puller is this one. It was nothing special when I got it, but > now it's more useful than most, because today most pullers have the > other end has another kind of grabber to pull the switch out of modern > mechanical keyboards that have removable switches, which is no use on > anything old or soldered. While this one the back end of the handle is a > thin flat spudger which is useful. > https://www.amazon.com/WASD-Keyboards-Wire-Keycap-Puller/dp/B00AZCGF7K > > -- > bkw > > On 3/20/24 19:13, Peter Vollan wrote: > > I should have watched your video before I shot my mouth off; now I see > > that the 102's keyswitches are different that the 100's. Where can I get > > the keycap tool? > > > > On Wed, 20 Mar 2024 at 00:26, Brian K. White <[email protected] > > <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: > > > > I had to search to find: > > "There is exactly one key on my m100's keyboard that rufuses to work, > > the K key." > > > > What was anyone supposed to do with that? > > > > What I said below and the video wouldn't help with a 100. It only > > applies to a 102. > > > > 100 has a totally different kind of keyswitch, and no similar easy > > possible fix to try, other than just wash the switch with distilled > > water (to clean out possible sugars from drinks), then alcohol (to > dry > > the water), then deoxit (to refresh the actual copper contacts > inside), > > and actuate the switch a bunch of times (after the deoxit soaks a > > while, > > you also need a little mechanical action to actually scrub away the > > oxidized surface). > > > > If simply washing and deoxit doesn't make it work, then you have to > > look > > for corroded traces, loose solder joints, desolder and disassemble > the > > keyswitch itself, maybe replace from ebay (the switches are available > > sometimes). > > > > -- > > bkw > > > > On 3/20/24 00:36, Peter Vollan wrote: > > > It would have been nice if you guys had helped me out with this > > when I > > > recently posted that my "K" key had inexplicably quit. I swapped > the > > > keycap out with the ESC key because that is rarely used; I didn't > > think > > > of the extra shift key. Long story short, I overestimated my > > abilities > > > and thought I had wrecked my unit permanently, but by hook or by > > crook, > > > and solder bridges and resistor legs, my keyboard was fixed. > > Except for > > > the escape key. Actually the cassette relay and the modem don't > > work, > > > but I think that is from changing those resistors and replacing > the > > > backup battery. Don't see how it could be the keyboard. > > > > > > On Mon, 18 Mar 2024 at 08:58, Brian White <[email protected] > > <mailto:[email protected]> > > > <mailto:[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>> > wrote: > > > > > > 102 has carbon impregnated silicone rubber domes like > > calculator or > > > remote buttons. > > > > > > With care it's possible to lift the top of the key switch > > body off > > > and lift out the rubber dome, and see if the contacts or > > button are > > > dirty. Maybe use some deoxit with a q-tip to clean the > contacts, > > > maybe clean the carbon pad. > > > > > > I had a stuck T key where everything looked fine but the > > carbon pad > > > maybe just looked worn. I swapped the rubber dome with the > > > right-shift key (a key that I don't use as much, and has a > > duplicate > > > on the left anyway, and was much less worn because all the > > previous > > > owners probably used it less than T also) and afterwards not > only > > > did the T work, the right shift still worked! > > > > > > To get the keyswitch apart, I don't know how to verbally > describe > > > everything clearly. I made a video > > > > > > https://youtu.be/n_oyDYRDYzs <https://youtu.be/n_oyDYRDYzs> > > <https://youtu.be/n_oyDYRDYzs <https://youtu.be/n_oyDYRDYzs>> > > > > > > > > > bkw > > > > > > On Sun, Mar 17, 2024, 10:47 PM Ronald Hudson > > <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> > > > <mailto:[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>> > wrote: > > > > > > Hi Everyone-- > > > > > > > > > My 102 has a failed "," key - all the other keys seem to > > work so > > > I am > > > guessing it is a bad key or broken trace. > > > > > > What say ye? > > > > > > > > > Thanks! > > > > > > Ron. > > > > > > > -- > > bkw > > > > -- > bkw > >
