Oh!, if you already have a 3d printer just measure the spacebar you have with a pair of calipers. [If you don't have calipers, get a pair at your local Harbor Freight store, good enough] Also measure the snaps on the keyboard switches and make a 3d model.
I am shocked that 3d models of the keys (and case) don't already exist from a resourceful list member. Maybe someone even has 3d scans of the keys to duplicate every curve? You should be able to get close enough for a working model.... use hot melt glue to position key if you can't design the snaps. If not to your liking use a Q-tip dipped in 91 % rubbing alcohol to loosen the glue joint and try again. Necessity is the mother of invention! On Fri, Nov 14, 2025, 6:11 PM Ryan Stapleton <[email protected]> wrote: > That is a pretty indepth process for what I am trying to tackle but good > to know that it is possible. I mean most things are with enough time, > effort and knowledge. > > I had seen keycaps for other systems and had hoped there was an easy > solution. I already have the FDM printer so that wasn’t the concern. > > I do appreciate the information and if I need to go down that path now or > in the future it is a possibility. > > Thank you > -Ryan > > > On Nov 12, 2025, at 10:20 AM, David Szasz <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > Ryan: > > > > I'm retired now. But back in my days as an industrial designer I would > have pried-off the space bar from a M102 and make an RTV mold of the key > (that's room temperature vulcanized rubber) Then I would have used auto > body filler to cast as many of the keys as needed. There are many tutorials > on how to do this online. As a student in the early 80's I worked in the > model shop of the old DEC (Digital Electronics Corp) and that's how it was > done for a model of a special sized key, as this would be. > > Two part molds with a cavity and core as this would be are possible with > this method. I try to avoid 3D printing because of the toxic fumes and > chemical waste in the process. RTV molds are a silicone rubber (so it's > somewhat unreactive) so in that process the fumes are mostly from the > casting compound used in the mold. > > > > This method saves having to create a 3d model of said key yourself. Gain > access to a 3d printer (unless you already have one, or access to one) > etc... and the other direct overhead costs. As for the RTV mold itself it > can be cast in a simple cardboard box you make yourself. So the costs are > minimal. There are also non-toxic casting compounds used by dentists, (of > all people) that are ideal though somewhat costly as a material for the > mold. I prefer the method used by dentists to cast tooth related stuff, > it's good for small parts. > > > > If you insist on a 3D print you could pry-off the space bar from the > m102. Then measure and create a 3d model of the key. From there export an > STL file and send it to a vendor, there are many to choose from. Let the > vendor deal with the cost and upkeep of the 3d printer, fumes and waste. > The main types of 3D printing are material extrusion (FDM) used in most > hobby 3d printers , vat polymerization (SLA, DLP), and powder bed fusion > (SLS, SLM, DMLS). As you may observe one could make the mold in a 3d > printer and use it to cast as many keys as needed in a casting material > with properties of your choice. > > > > Regards > > DS > > > > > > On Wed, Nov 12, 2025 at 8:01 AM Ryan Stapleton <[email protected]> > wrote: > > Hello All, > > > > I have recently picked up a 100 that is missing a space bar and I assume > the spring based on what looks like a place for one. > > > > Is there a place to get spare parts? 3D print the space bar? Other > ideas? > > > > The 100 seems to work fine and I have removed the battery (was just > starting to look and didn’t see anything on the motherboard). > > > > I am pretty new to the Tandy 100/102 world. Got my first a month ago > (102) and now a 100. > > > > I appreciate any help finding a space bar or some way to make a space > bar. > > > > Thank you > > -Ryan > > > >
