There are three methods here:

IDE (ATA) drives are backward-compatible. You may as well buy an ATA-100 
drive even if you only need ATA-66. You can always swap the drives back 
when you sell the iMac and use the bigger drive in your next computer.

1) Find a used drive. Upside: Save money and maybe never have a problem 
as long as you live. Downside: May have bad sectors, may have been 
jarred or banged around while the heads were on the media, etc. In other 
words, may be great or may be days from failure, or may be partly broken 
already (with the bad sectors formatted out). You takes your chances.

2) Buy a "retail box" drive. You can find them almost anywhere, you 
don't have to go to the Mac store or even a PC store (try Staples, 
Business Depot, etc). Upside: Fairly commonly sold, so you can shop 
around for the best deal. Comes with some kind of Manufacturer's 
Warranty. You can take it back to the retailer fairly easily if it is 
somehow no good right after installing it. Downside: Not much, but keep 
to proven brand names. Can cost a little more than the lowest prices you 
will see, more about that in option 3. I have had good luck with Maxtor 
(my G4/400 even had one with an Apple decal on it) but some others swear 
by the IBM XP(I think) drives. Check out accelerateyourmac.com for 
other's experiences.

3) Buy an "OEM" drive. This is a "HD in a bag" with probably a little 
scrap of paper inside with some gibberish about installing on a PC and 
(hopefully) some info for the jumper settings. These drives are a little 
cheaper than the retail box drives, but otherwise should be the same. I 
have used them without problems, but this is only an option if you don't 
need any hand-holding. I suggest buying locally and in person, and 
getting a written warranty or return/exchange option in case the drive 
is bad. Upside: You may save 50 bucks over the retail box version. 
Downside: A bad drive will cause you grief. Some of these drives (the 
ones with the super low prices on the net) come with no warranty 
whatsoever. They SHOULD have some kind of warranty from the 
manufacturer, but it will be limited and may require much hoop-jumping 
to get a replacement; thus the local store/exchange policy warning. You 
in all likelyhood will be buying from a store that speaks "PC Geek" only 
(look for a place that sells motherboards, fans, CPUs and cases to PC 
build-your-own-box types). Mere mention of Mac may send them into the 
back room never to appear again SO DON'T MENTION IT. Act like you know 
what you are doing.

OEM parts: Are parts that are actually supposed to be sold to PC 
Manufacturers only, and not the general public. Thus the low prices and 
bulk packaging. Depending on exactly how they were ordered, they may 
have no warranty at all (PC mfr "eats" any bad parts in exchange for 
very lowest prices) or a very limited warranty (the only kind you should 
consider). The super-cheap parts you find on the net are always OEM 
versions. SOME vendors get these things from bankrupt PC makers, or 
otherwise Surplus means; hence no support from the drive maker and many 
angry customers. However, this is still a good way to save if you have a 
local dealer who will exchange bad units for an identical one (probably 
from the same bulk shipment, however).

You need to set up the jumpers correctly (Master if you replace a drive 
with this one or Slave if you can install 2 drives on the same IDE bus). 
I understand opening an iMac's case can be tricky and I am going to 
annoy you with another warning:

IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING, NEVER OPEN A COMPUTER WITH A 
BUILT-IN MONITOR. If you think you can handle this, you are on your own. 
Video monitors require power supplies with many thousands of volts and 
some components in these power supplies will store energy for months. 
Just unplugging it is not enough to make it safe. Get good directions 
and follow them carefully. IT CAN KILL YOU.


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