If running your own server is an option for you, you can quite easily
set up your own CalDAV/CardDAV server.
I can recommend davical on debian, using the sync-evolution GUI on the
n900 (documentation for the command line tools seems to be dated).
Owncloud might be of interest as well as it integrates a CalDAV service
and offers a nice web-interface.
OFC you want to encrypt your connections using SSL.

There are plenty of desktop clients available (kontact, evolution,
thunderbird through plugins)…icedove should be work I'd guess.

NB: you can always run a local server just on your laptop.

-- 
Philipp Haselwarter

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