Fishing with Jigs is for Fishermen who Catch Fish
When I opened Just Fishin' in 1989 the jigging boom was about to happen in
New Zealand. The guys that were first into it were reporting phenomenal
catches of a wide range of fish.
But amongst non-jiggers, scepticism reigned supreme. How could a metal
imitation of a fish, bouncing up and down near the bottom, catch fish? Soon
the evidence became too clear to ignore, and the jigging market exploded.
Now, here I will make a guess that is not entirely without the evidence of
hard observation; 50% or more of the people who bought jigs tried them once
or twice, and never used them again.
The reason for the high level of lapsed users is simple, they never caught
any fish jigging. When I have questioned these people, one thing has become
very clear, they tend to be the same people who do not catch many fish in
any case.
These people bought jigs and jigging rods in the hope that this new gear,
this new technology would somehow catch them more, or some, fish.
In a roundabout way, we return to a previous chapter where I asserted that
where you fish is the most important factor in catching fish.
If a fisherman cannot identify where fish are likely to be holding, it is
most likely that this fisherman will catch no fish. This remains true no
matter what type of fishing tackle, or bait, they use.
One thing about jig fishing that is certainly true; using jigs where fish
are not is a complete waste of time.
At least when bait fishing, there is a chance that fish may be attracted to
where you are fishing by the smell of your bait or berley.
Jigging can be a very effective method of catching fish, but like all forms
of fishing, using hit and miss methods will give you hit and miss results.
In many ways successful jig fishing requires more work in identifying where
fish are likely to be, than any other form of fishing. This is why many
fishers are unsuccessful at catching fish using jigs. Identifying likely
fish-holding territory in the general area you have chosen to fish, is even
more critical when jig fishing than in any other form of fishing. Doing the
homework prior to fishing is even more essential.
Jig Size Guide
Lure size selection is aided by using a sounder. As a rough general guide
select a lure using the following formula. Take your breaking strain of the
line you are using in kilos, add a nought, and this is the lure weight in
grams.
For example, 10 kilo line plus a 0, equals a 100g jig.
You can go up or down about 20% to take account of water depth and current.
For instance in 30 metres of water or less an 80g jig will often do when
using 10 kilo line. In water over 30 metres you may have to go up to a 120g
jig.
The most important factor in jig weight selection is to use the lightest
jig possible to reach the bottom with the line nearly vertical, while the
jig retains a 'fluttering' motion as it sinks. The whole idea of a jig is a
lure that looks like a crippled or hurt bait fish.
In the chart below I have set out a chart for basic bottom bouncing for
snapper and other inshore species. Different weights are used when high
speed jigging for kingfish, or deep jigging for hapuka, these will be
covered in the chapters devoted to fishing for these species.
Line Breaking Strain Average Weight High
Weight Low Weight
4
kilo 40g
50g 30g
6
kilo 60g
75g 50g
8
kilo 80g
100g 60g
10
kilo 100g 120g
80g
15
kilo 150g 180g
120g
It should be noted that lure shape can make a difference. For instance if
you are in deep water or in a fast current, instead of tying on a heavier
lure, try using a narrower profile jig. These narrower jigs will sink
faster, without adding bottom-plummeting weight. In shallower water a wider
profile lure, with a more pronounced flutter may do the trick.
Some jigs are made of softer metals that can be bent. Sometimes adding a
small bend to the lure will produce just the right flutter to turn on the fish.
It is important to think of jigs as hard bait. Just as you will change
flesh bait to try and tempt fish, changing jig shape, jig weight, and the
action you impart to the jig will sometimes make a difference.
Triple Your Luck?
One question that often pops up when jigging is discussed is whether to use
treble or single hooks.
Here are some pros and cons.
Treble hooks do hook-up more often. They also hook-up on the bottom more
too! (As if I cared when I owned the shop, it depended which side of the
counter you were on). But many fish are lightly hooked on trebles, and the
foul-hooked rate is higher.
It can be very difficult to release undersized fish that are treble-hooked
without terminally damaging the fish. This to me is the biggest persuasion
factor against trebles.
Single-hooked jigs tend to have a reduced hook-up rate, but hook set is
often more secure. But the single biggest advantage of single hooks is they
are much easier to remove when releasing fish.
The final added bonus of using single hooks is that it is much easier to
add 'movement' and 'action' enhancers to the jig. Many jig fishers add
coloured plastic tubing to the hook to add extra life to the jig. Adding
soft plastic lures to a single hook increases hook-ups as well.
Jigging Is For Fishermen Who Catch Fish
When jigging first exploded onto the New Zealand fishing scene the hype and
overblown promise far exceeded the reality for most fishers. Jigging by its
very nature is, to use a corporate buzz word, pro-active fishing.
For the bean counters among you, the returns from jig fishing are directly
proportional to the time and effort you put in.
It is a three part activity:
� Identify where fish are most likely to be.
� Search that area to find the fish.
� Use the equipment correctly to catch the fish.
The 80:20 rule is truer in jigging than most other sections of the sport of
fishing. It is no accident that the most successful jig fishermen I know
were successful bait fishermen before taking up jigging.
Leave The Bait At Home
There is a way to improve your jigging knowledge and technique, and that
way is to leave your bait at home. Having no alternative is a great way to
reduce the learning curve.
<http://www.bishfish.co.nz/smarter/smarter.htm>From "Fishing Smarter"
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� Copyright Tony Bishop 2002 All rights reserved.
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