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NY Times, July 15, 2018
In Town With Little Water, Coca-Cola Is Everywhere. So Is Diabetes.
By Oscar Lopez and Andrew Jacobs
SAN CRISTÓBAL DE LAS CASAS, Mexico — Maria del Carmen Abadía lives in
one of Mexico’s rainiest regions, but she has running water only once
every two days. When it does trickle from her tap, the water is so
heavily chlorinated, she said, it’s undrinkable.
Potable water is increasingly scarce in San Cristóbal de las Casas, a
picturesque mountain town in the southeastern state of Chiapas where
some neighborhoods have running water just a few times a week, and many
households are forced to buy extra water from tanker trucks.
So, many residents drink Coca-Cola, which is produced by a local
bottling plant, can be easier to find than bottled water and is almost
as cheap.
In a country that is among the world’s top consumers of sugary drinks,
Chiapas is a champion: Residents of San Cristóbal and the lush highlands
that envelop the city drink on average more than two liters, or more
than half a gallon, of soda a day.
“Soft drinks have always been more available than water,” said Ms.
Abadía, 35, a security guard who, like her parents, has struggled with
obesity and diabetes.
Vicente Vaqueiros, 33, a doctor at the clinic in San Juan Chamula, a
nearby farming town, said health care workers were struggling to deal
with the surge in diabetes.
“When I was a kid and used to come here, Chamula was isolated and didn’t
have access to processed food,” he said. “Now, you see the kids drinking
Coke and not water. Right now, diabetes is hitting the adults, but it’s
going to be the kids next. It’s going to overwhelm us.”
Buffeted by the dual crises of the diabetes epidemic and the chronic
water shortage, residents of San Cristóbal have identified what they
believe is the singular culprit: the hulking Coca-Cola factory on the
edge of town.
The plant has permits to extract more than 300,000 gallons of water a
day as part of a decades-old deal with the federal government that
critics say is overly favorable to the plant’s owners.
Public ire has been boiling over. In April 2017, masked protesters
marched on the factory holding crosses that read “Coca-Cola kills us”
and demanding that the government shut the plant down.
“When you see that institutions aren’t providing something as basic as
water and sanitation, but you have this company with secure access to
one of the best water sources, of course it gives you a shock,” said
Fermin Reygadas, the director of Cántaro Azul, an organization that
provides clean water to rural communities.
Coca-Cola executives and some outside experts say the company has been
unfairly maligned for the water shortages. They blame rapid
urbanization, poor planning and a lack of government investment that has
allowed the city’s infrastructure to crumble.
Climate change, scientists say, has also played a role in the failure of
artesian wells that sustained San Cristóbal for generations.
“It doesn’t rain like it used to,” said Jesús Carmona, a biochemist at
the local Ecosur scientific research center, which is affiliated with
the Mexican government. “Almost every day, day and night, it used to rain.”
But at a time of growing strife between Mexico and the United States,
fed by President Trump’s vow to build a border wall and his threats to
scrap the North American Free Trade Agreement, the increasing antipathy
toward Coca-Cola has come to symbolize the frustrations that many
Mexicans feel about their northern neighbor.
The plant is owned by Femsa, a food and beverage behemoth that owns the
rights to bottle and sell Coca-Cola throughout Mexico and much of the
rest of Latin America. Femsa is one of Mexico’s most powerful companies;
a former chief executive of Coca-Cola in Mexico, Vicente Fox, was the
country’s president from 2000 to 2006.
Nafta has been beneficial for Femsa, which has received hundreds of
millions of dollars in foreign investment.
But in San Cristóbal, Nafta is widely viewed as an unwelcome interloper.
On New Year’s Day in 1994, the day the trade pact went into effect,
rebels from the Zapatista Army of National Liberation swept into San
Cristóbal, declared war against the Mexican state and burned government
buildings.
Although the two sides eventually signed a peace agreement,
anti-globalization sentiment still simmers across the region, one of the
poorest in Mexico.
“Coca-Cola is abusive, manipulative,” said Martin López López, a local
activist who has helped organize boycotts and protests against the soda
company. “They take our pure water, they dye it and they trick you on TV
saying that it’s the spark of life. Then they take the money and go.”
Femsa executives say the plant has little impact on the city’s water
supply, noting that its wells are far deeper than the surface springs
that supply local residents.
“When we hear, and when we read in the news, that we’re finishing up the
water, the truth is it really shocks us,” said José Ramón Martínez, a
company spokesman.
The company is also an important economic force in San Cristóbal,
employing about 400 people and contributing around $200 million to the
state economy, Mr. Martínez said.
Critics, however, say the sweetheart deal between Femsa and the federal
government doesn’t serve the city well.
Laura Mebert, a social scientist at Kettering University in Michigan who
has studied the conflict, says Coca-Cola pays a disproportionately small
amount for its water privileges — about 10 cents per 260 gallons.
“Coca-Cola pays this money to the federal government, not the local
government,” Ms. Mebert said, “while the infrastructure that serves the
residents of San Cristóbal is literally crumbling.”
Among the issues facing the city is a lack of wastewater treatment,
meaning that raw sewage flows directly into local waterways. Mr.
Carmona, the biochemist, said San Cristóbal’s rivers were rife with E.
coli and other infectious pathogens.
Last year, in an apparent effort to appease the community, Femsa began
talks with local residents to build a water treatment plant that would
provide clean drinking water to 500 families in the area.
But rather than easing tensions, the plan led to more protests by locals
and forced the company to halt construction of the facility.
“We’re not against the treatment plant,” said León Ávila, a professor at
the Intercultural University of Chiapas, who led the protests. “We just
want the government to fulfill its obligation to provide potable water
for its citizens. How are we supposed to allow Coke to wash its sins
after years of taking the water from San Cristóbal?”
Since bottles of Coca-Cola arrived here a half-century ago, the beverage
has been deeply intertwined with the local culture.
In San Juan Chamula, bottled soda anchors religious ceremonies cherished
by the city’s indigenous Tzotzil population.
Inside the town’s whitewashed church, tourists step gingerly across
carpets of fresh pine needles as copal incense and smoke from hundreds
of candles fill the air.
But the main draw here for tourists is to watch the faithful, who pray
over bottles of Coke or Pepsi, and also over live chickens, some
sacrificed on the spot.
Many Tzotzil believe carbonated soda has the power to heal the sick.
Mikaela Ruiz, 41, a local resident, recalls how soda helped cure her
infant daughter, who was weak from vomiting and diarrhea. The ceremony
was performed by her diabetic mother, a traditional healer who has
performed the soda ceremonies for more than 40 years.
But, for many in San Cristóbal, the ubiquity of cheap Coca-Cola — and
the diabetes that stalks nearly every household — simply compounds their
anger toward the soft drink company.
Local health advocates say aggressive marketing campaigns by Coke and
Pepsi that started in the 1960s helped embed sugary soft drinks into
local religious practices, which blend Catholicism with Maya rituals.
For decades, the companies produced billboards in local languages, often
using models in traditional Tzotzil garb.
Although Coke has since discontinued the ad campaigns, Mr. Martínez, the
Femsa spokesman, described them as “a gesture of respect toward
indigenous communities.”
He also rejected criticisms that the company’s beverages have had a
negative impact on public health. Mexicans, he said, may have a genetic
proclivity toward diabetes.
While scientific research does suggest that Mexicans of indigenous
ancestry have higher rates of diabetes, local advocates say this puts
even greater responsibility on multinational companies that sell
products high in sugar.
“Indigenous people ate very simple food,” said Mr. López, the activist,
who spent years living with rural communities as a missionary. “And when
Coke arrived, their bodies weren’t ready for it.”
Ms. Abadía, the security guard, said she blamed herself for drinking so
much soda. Still, with her mother’s health deteriorating, and having
watched her father die from complications from diabetes, she can’t help
but fear for her own well-being.
“I’m worried I’ll end up blind or without a foot or a hand,” she said.
“I’m very scared.”
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