NY Times, September 30, 2009
Immigration Crackdown With Firings, Not Raids
By JULIA PRESTON

LOS ANGELES — A clothing maker with a vast garment factory in downtown 
Los Angeles is firing about 1,800 immigrant employees in the coming days 
— more than a quarter of its workforce — after a federal investigation 
turned up irregularities in the identity documents the workers presented 
when they were hired.

The firings at the company, American Apparel, have become a showcase for 
the Obama administration’s effort to reduce illegal immigration by 
forcing employers to dismiss unauthorized workers rather than through 
workplace raids. The firings, however, have divided opinion in 
California over the fallout of the new approach, especially at a time of 
record joblessness in the state and with a major, well-regarded employer 
as a target.

Mayor Antonio Villaraigosa, a Democrat, called the dismissals 
“devastating,” and his office has insisted that the federal government 
should focus on employers that exploit their workers. American Apparel 
has been lauded by city officials and business leaders for paying well 
above the garment industry standard, offering health benefits and not 
long ago giving $18 million in stock to its workers.

But opponents of illegal immigration, including Representative Brian P. 
Bilbray, a Republican from San Diego who is chairman of a House caucus 
that opposes efforts to extend legal status to illegal immigrants, back 
the enforcement effort. They say American Apparel is typical of many 
companies that have “become addicted to illegal labor,” in Mr. Bilbray’s 
words.

“Of course it’s a good idea,” Mr. Bilbray said of the crackdown. “They 
seem to think that somehow the law doesn’t matter, that crossing the 
line from legal to illegal is not a big deal.”

In July, the federal Immigration and Customs Enforcement agency, known 
as ICE, opened audits of employment records similar to the one at 
American Apparel at 654 companies around the country. John T. Morton, 
who, as assistant secretary of homeland security, runs ICE, said the 
audits covered all types of employers with immigrant workers, including 
many like American Apparel that were not shadowy sweatshops or serial 
labor code violators.

The investigation at American Apparel was started 17 months ago, under 
President George W. Bush. Obama administration officials point out that 
they have not followed the Bush pattern of concluding such 
investigations with a mass round-up of workers. Those raids drew 
criticism for damaging businesses and dividing immigrant families.

Immigration officials said they would now focus on employers, primarily 
wielding the threat of civil complaints and fines, instead of raids and 
worker deportation.

“Now all manner of companies face the very real possibility that the 
government, using our basic civil powers, is going to come knocking on 
the door,” Mr. Morton said. The goal, he said, is to create “a truly 
national deterrent” to hiring unauthorized labor that would “change the 
practices of American employers as a class.”

The employees being fired from American Apparel could not resolve 
discrepancies discovered by investigators in documents they presented at 
hiring and federal social security or immigration records — probably 
because the documents were fake. Peter Schey, a lawyer for American 
Apparel, said that ICE had cited deficiencies in its record keeping, but 
the authorities had not accused the company of knowingly hiring 
unauthorized workers. A fine threatened by the agency was withdrawn, Mr. 
Schey said.

After months of discussions with ICE officials, the company moved on its 
own to terminate the workers because, Mr. Schey said, federal guidelines 
for such cases are “in a shambles.” The Bush administration proposed 
rules for employers to follow when workers’ documents do not match, but 
a federal court halted the effort and the Obama administration decided 
to abandon it.

With its bright-pink, seven-story sewing plant in the center of Los 
Angeles, American Apparel is one of the biggest manufacturing employers 
in the city, and makes a selling point of the “Made in U.S.A.” labels in 
its racy T-shirts and miniskirts. Dov Charney, the company’s chief 
executive, has campaigned, in T-shirt logos and eye-catching 
advertisements, to “legalize L.A.,” by granting legal status to illegal 
immigrants, a policy President Obama supports.

Since the audit began, Mr. Charney has treaded carefully, eager to show 
that his publicly traded company is obeying the law, and to reassure 
investors that the loss of so many workers will not damage the business, 
since production has slowed already with the recession.

But Mr. Charney is also questioning why the authorities made a target of 
his company. Over the summer he joined his workers in a street protest 
against the firings. Because the immigration investigation is still 
underway, Mr. Charney declined to be interviewed for this article but 
did respond in an e-mail message.

The firings “will not help the economy, will not make us safer,” he 
said. “No matter how we choose to define or label them,” he said, 
illegal immigrants “are hard-working, taxpaying workers.”

On a recent visit to American Apparel’s factory floors here, amid the 
whirring of sewing machines and the whooshing of cooling fans, a murmur 
of many languages rose: mostly Spanish, but also Chinese, Korean, 
Vietnamese and Portuguese. Masseurs were offering 20-minute massages for 
sewers in need of a break.

But there was also a mood of mourning, as work was interrupted with 
farewell parties. The majority of workers losing their jobs are women, 
most of whom are working to support families. Many departing workers 
have been with the company for a decade or more.

Executives said many workers had learned skills specific to a 
proprietary production system that allows American Apparel to make 
250,000 garments a week in Los Angeles, while keeping prices competitive 
with imports from places like China.

Some workers who are leaving said the company had been a close-knit 
community for them. Jesús, 30, originally from Puebla, Mexico, said he 
was hired 10 years ago as a sewing machine operator, then worked and 
studied his way up to an office job as coordinating manager.

“I learned how to think here,” said Jesús, who asked that his last name 
not be used because of his illegal status. The company provides health 
and life insurance, he said, and he currently earns about $900 a week, 
with taxes deducted from his paycheck.

Like many others, Jesús said his next move was to hunt for work in Los 
Angeles. He will not return to Mexico, he said, because he is gay and 
fears discrimination.

“There they treat you and judge you without even knowing you,” Jesús 
said. But he said several job offers from mainstream garment makers had 
been withdrawn once he was asked for documents.

“Being realistic,” he said, “I guess I’m going to have to go to one of 
those sweatshop companies where I’m going to get paid under the table.”

ICE has made no arrests so far at the factory. But Mr. Morton of ICE 
said the agency would not rule out pursuing workers proven to be illegal 
immigrants.

Mr. Schey said company human resources managers had added new scrutiny 
to hiring procedures. But workers facing dismissal pointed to the line 
of job applicants outside the factory one recent day, who, like many of 
them, were almost all Spanish-speaking immigrants.

“I think the Americans think that garment sewing is demeaning work,” 
said Francisco, 38, a Guatemalan with nine years at the plant who is 
being forced to leave.

A top supervisor, he is training new hires to replace him.

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