Fear and anger in China's far west

By Jehangir S. Pocha
The Boston Globe

On a recent Friday, the holy day of Islam, crowds swelled inside the antique 
Jaman Mosque, the largest in this ancient town in the far western Chinese 
region of Xinjiang, home to the nation's small but restive Muslim minority.

The turbaned and bearded clerics who preached to the gathered faithful had 
all been vetted for their political beliefs by local Chinese authorities, 
who determine what sermons they can give, what version of the Koran they may 
use, and where and how religious gatherings can be held.

The Chinese government forces all Muslims in China to adhere to a state- 
controlled version of their religion, and banners placed around town warn 
locals not to stray from the official faith. The imams are not even allowed 
to issue the call to prayer using a public address system.

The Chinese government has tightened its constraints on the Uighur ethnic 
minority in western China as officials fear a rise in militant Islam. It is 
also acutely aware of the growing strategic importance of Xinjiang in 
Central Asia and the large oil and natural gas reserves under its soil.

In turn, resentment among the Uighurs toward perceived repression by the 
Chinese has intensified. And increasingly, the Uighurs are speaking out and 
demanding autonomy, thanks in part to the emergence of articulate Uighur 
voices at home and in exile.

Though Xinjiang is ostensibly an autonomous region of China, Wang Lequan, 
the local Communist Party secretary, has publicly called for Uighurs to 
learn more Mandarin and adopt more Chinese customs.

To dissuade Uighur youths from inheriting their traditional Islamic culture, 
the government has banned children from entering mosques, studying Islam or 
celebrating Islamic holidays.

The fear and state control under which Uighurs live in Xinjiang was apparent 
when some foreign journalists, who are generally not allowed into the 
region, were taken on a tour by Chinese officials last month.

The journalists were carefully monitored, but when they did manage to go out 
alone, most Uighurs were too scared to talk about any antipathy they might 
feel toward the government.

A man who identified himself only as Abdel rubbed his clean-shaven chin 
anxiously as his friends finished their dinner of goat soup and noodles.

"The government doesn't allow young people here to grow beards," he said as 
the sun set. "If you do, they will send you to the forced-labor camps."

Resentment against Beijing has been building here since 1949, when Mao 
Zedong annexed the independent nation of East Turkestan and began to 
assimilate it into mainland China. To do this, Beijing imposed strictures on 
Islam and sought to dilute the culture of the local Uighurs, a Central Asian 
people with a Turkic-Persian culture.

Abdel said the biggest problem Uighurs face is that of social and economic 
exclusion. "The truth is, where you see money there will be Han, where there 
is poverty you will see us Uighurs," Abdel said, refering to the China's 
ethnic-Han majority.

Some Chinese officials say they are baffled by the criticism that China 
receives for its policies in Xinjiang. "On the one hand the world complains 
that Pakistan doesn't do enough to control its madrasas, and on the other 
they complain when China does not allow them," said one official who asked 
not to be identified, referring to Muslim religious schools.

Though Uighurs have traditionally followed a moderate blend of Sunni Islam 
and Sufi mysticism strongly influenced by local folklore and rural 
traditions, a rising Islamic mood is palpable in Xinjiang. More and more 
women are wearing veils, residents say, and mosques are packed on Fridays.

Mostly this is due to a rising interest in religion that is common across 
much of China, where people are reacting to the intense atheism of the Mao 
era. But in Xinjiang, rising Islamic sentiment has also taken on a political 
hue. Some separatists have conducted armed attacks against Chinese targets, 
and Chinese officials say they are also behind most of the public protests 
that have rocked Xinjiang in recent years.

After the Sept. 11 attacks on the United States, Chinese authorities have 
used the global war on terrorism to crack down on suspected separatists.

Plainclothes policemen routinely roam the rustic mosques and bustling 
markets of Uighur towns. Human rights groups and local residents say that 
anyone thought to be acting suspiciously is hustled away and often punished 
without a fair trial.

The situation in this remote western area has received much less global 
attention than that of neighboring Tibet Autonomous Region, where Buddhist 
culture has been systematically undermined by Beijing. But that is changing.

Rebiya Kadeer, an Uighur exile living in Washington, who had been considered 
a leading candidate for this year's Nobel Peace Prize, says the world is 
taking notice of the Uighurs' suffering from what they see as Chinese 
colonization. "The Chinese have denied us basic rights and freedoms - that's 
why we now want them out of our land," she said in a telephone interview.

Faced with the might of the Chinese state, many Uighurs fear that their 
unique culture, which also includes its own language, will soon fade into 
history. Ahmet, a 16-year-old student in Kashgar, a city near Xinjiang's 
southern border with Pakistan, said the solution his parents are holding out 
is simple.

"They tell me to marry a Han girl," he said. "That way we can get some 
chances. Otherwise, as Uighurs, life is very hard."

http://www.iht.com/articles/2006/11/21/news/muslims.php

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