JANUARY 28, 2009

The Arts Come Marching In Again

By LARRY BLUMENFELD
Wall Street Journal

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB123310346709122221.html


New Orleans

Once alight with bulbs that spelled out "Armstrong," the large steel 
archway above North Rampart Street, across from the venerable Donna's Bar & 
Grill, was dark much of the past decade, largely rusted. Beneath it, the 
main gate to a park named for trumpeter Louis Armstrong had been padlocked 
for more than three years, save for the occasional special event. Just 
inside, Congo Square -- where two centuries ago enslaved Africans and free 
people of color spent Sundays dancing and drumming to the bamboula rhythm, 
seeding the pulse of New Orleans jazz -- had been effectively off limits. 
The adjacent Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts, home to opera 
and ballet performances for more than 30 years, sat empty and in need of 
repair after taking on 14 feet of water in 2005.

It would be hard to find a more potent symbol of the tenuous state of 
musical life and cultural history in a city largely defined by both. But 
earlier this month, shortly after dusk, Mayor C. Ray Nagin flipped a switch 
-- just a prop, it turned out, for dramatic effect -- and on went the 
lights of the arch and the park's streetlamps. As the Original Pin Stripe 
Band played "Bourbon Street Parade," a small mock second-line parade wound 
its way around a bronze statue of Armstrong and over to a sparkling Mahalia 
Jackson Theater for a free concert, the first in a series of events 
spanning 10 days and a broad range of performing arts.

"The cultural arts of New Orleans are back bigger, better and stronger than 
ever before," Mayor Nagin had said at an afternoon press conference. "This 
is the start of what I predict will be a year of unprecedented construction 
in the city."

William Chrisman, the city's capital-projects administrator, estimated the 
theater renovation's cost at $22 million, with the park restoration adding 
an additional $5 million. FEMA, which initially denied funding, has pledged 
to reimburse $9 million. John Quirk, who oversees the federally owned 
National Jazz Historical Park -- three leased acres within Armstrong Park 
-- hopes to complete his renovations late this year.

The opening concert was studded with local-hero performers, from singers 
Irma Thomas and Marva Wright to trumpeter Kermit Ruffins. Saturday's 
"Evening of Music and Dance" showcased the city's fine resident orchestra, 
highlighted with performances by violinist Itzhak Perlman and principal 
dancers from the New York City and San Francisco ballet companies. By 
Sunday, Congo Square buzzed with young musicians and dancers awaiting their 
turns on the Mahalia Jackson stage, as presented by a half-dozen local 
arts-education organizations. A circle of drummers beat out their version 
of fanfare on African djembes. "This has been a long time coming, and it 
feels good," said drummer Luther Gray, whose Congo Square Foundation 
lobbied successfully to place the spot on the National Register of Historic 
Places in 1993.

The celebration spilled into the next week: A Tuesday orchestra concert 
paired pianist-songwriter Allen Toussaint's iconic hits with Beethoven's 
Fifth Symphony; a Friday tribute to gospel singer Mahalia Jackson, the 
theater's namesake, starred singer Yolanda Adams along with trumpeter Irvin 
Mayfield's New Orleans Jazz Orchestra. And when tenor Plácido Domingo 
topped the bill at a Sunday New Orleans Opera Association gala, history was 
referenced there too: New Orleans hosted the first documented opera 
performance in North America, in 1796. Though best known for its jazz, the 
city has long maintained enthusiastic audiences for classical music, opera 
and ballet, faithful through three years of compromised circumstances and 
venues.

The 32-acre Armstrong Park, whose design was inspired by Copenhagen's 
Tivoli Gardens, opened in 1980. Within a decade it had fallen into 
disrepair. Not all New Orleans residents had celebrated its creation. The 
park was carved from residential streets in Tremé, which some consider the 
oldest African-American neighborhood in America and which has certainly 
been a hothouse of jazz culture for generations.

"The park has always been more about potential than reality," said Lolis 
Eric Elie, a columnist for the Times-Picayune and co-producer of the 
documentary "Faubourg Tremé: The Untold Story of Black New Orleans." "Now 
that it will be unlocked we're reminded of what it could be, but its 
reopening will not change daily life in the Tremé."

Will it alter the fortunes of New Orleans musicians? There's deep need 
among their ranks. In November, the nonprofit Sweet Home New Orleans issued 
a "State of New Orleans Culture" report estimating that three-quarters of 
the city's 4,500 culture-bearers have returned since Katrina. But as 
Musicians Union President "Deacon" John Moore said, "It ain't easy in the 
Big Easy." Since Katrina, music bookings are down by nearly half (45%), 
average wages by nearly one-fifth (18%). Meanwhile, costs of living have 
risen 11%.

"The scarcity of audiences and the continuing challenges of resettling have 
limited musicians' opportunities to make a living," explained Sweet Home 
Director Jordan Hirsch. As pianist Davis Rogan put it: "The music is back 
110%. But the audience is only 50% back."

"Historically, musicians have been taken for granted here because it's so 
common and pervasive," said Scott Aiges, a director at the New Orleans Jazz 
and Heritage Foundation. "When we hear a brass band it's just another day. 
But these musicians are the working poor, making an average of $21,000 a 
year." The foundation's efforts include programs promoting musicians to 
international festival producers and film music supervisors.

In November, Louisiana's Lt. Gov. Mitch Landrieu gathered representatives 
from 60 nations for a "World Cultural Economic Forum," seeking to spearhead 
a statewide effort to use culture as an economic engine for recovery. 
Earlier this month, he announced the 2010 opening of a new jazz museum and 
theater on the site of a former U.S. Mint in New Orleans via a $4 million 
collaboration between the state and the National Parks Service.

Many musicians look to the city for more support. Citing a 2008 
city-sponsored economic impact study, Ernest Collins, arts and 
entertainment director for the Nagin administration, said: "If we say we're 
a music city, we need to make New Orleans more business-friendly in that 
market, and be more consistent in supporting the musicians and club owners 
-- this means rethinking things like zoning, parking, police protection."

That gate beneath the North Rampart Street arch is still not open on a 
daily basis. Yet Armstrong Park is as good a place as any to renew a focus 
on culture. As a gathering place for opera devotees and African drummers, 
bordered at its main entrance by a street separating the French Quarter 
from Tremé, the reopened park and the revitalized theater represent fresh 
chances to bridge the often-forbidding divide between the city's 
neighborhoods, and to revive the city's image as both performing-arts 
destination and sacred spot in the legacy of African-American culture.


=================================================
George Antunes                    Voice (713) 743-3923
Associate Professor               Fax   (713) 743-3927
Political Science                    Internet: antunes at uh dot edu
University of Houston
Houston, TX 77204-3011         

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