Zac
I have lengthened lower control arms to on both my cars (1600 street car and
stanza rally car )and they work very well (not sure if they are legal though)
Mick
Zac Campbell wrote:
> I love the no bodyroll feel and another 1/2 inch lowering is out of
> question. So I've got to consider the offset strut tops. I've also heard the
> same (negative) thing about the rear bars.
>
> The current setup saves me hurtling sideways out of corners which I like,
> but the understeer does make the car feel a bit slower in the corners.
>
> Have any other listers had any experience with offset strut tops?
> Hard to get, install, expensive?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> zac
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Derek Franklin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2000 4:01 PM
> Subject: RE: Welded diff.
>
> > Zac,
> >
> > adding 0.5 degrees -ve to each front leg ( offset strut tops and 1/2" more
> lowering
> > ) helped reduce the chronic understeer in the wagon, but changing the
> swaybar
> > from the 22mm aftermarket one to a 19mm standard job ( with nolathane
> bushes
> > ) was a bigger bonus. More bodyroll but it feels much nicer and doesn't
> kill
> > the outside edge of the tyres any more.
> >
> > If you haven't got one, a rear swaybar will definitely reduce understeer,
> and
> > an adjustable one will allow you to keep the big front bar and dial in
> your
> > under/oversteer to a certain extent.
> > Just watch for the rear wheels deciding they want to lead out of corners
> :)
> >
> > Having said that, my sedan's not on the road yet so I can't speak from
> experience,
> > and there's a number of listers who reckon a rear bar is bad news on a
> 510,
> > especially on rough roads. Statesiders seem to like 'em though.
> >
> > D ( all info, no advice - again )F
> >
> > >Get some negative camber (not too much) happening on that front end and
> your
> >
> > >understeering days will be over.
> >
> >
>
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