Thanks Derek, I got these strut tops for $10 so they will be what I will try
first!
The thing is i don't want to make the car too tail happy, I would just like
a bit more control and less understeer in corners.
Another thing I need to do is a '68 x-member to get rid of the bumpsteer.
I'll keep you posted on the results of the fitment which might be this weekend!
zac
>Zac,
>
>forget Grand Auto - they didn't even know they existed and I already checked
>their yard :)
>Most wreckers haven't a clue what they are so you'll have to find them by scouring
>wrecks yourself - City Dismantlers are big, bad and a ripoff, but they have
>a few 180Bs. I got one pair from there ( had to buy the struts ).
>I'd forget trying to get a certain offset, any will help.
>Yes, lowering improves camber up to a point, but once the lower control arm
>starts to point up during a bump or turn your camber is heading toward positive
>again :(
>Yes, they'll fit 200B struts.
>
>Personally I can't see how half the world swears by the rear swaybar and half
>won't touch it - just doesn't add up. PL's car handles as well as any road
510
>I've followed ( uh...tried to follow, bloody turbos ! ), and that's with a
rear
>bar fitted. The front bar has to be stiff enough to avoid lifting the inside
>rear out of corners, but it's the balance of the two that will affect your
steering
>attitude - gotta match roll stiffness front and rear.
>
>If you're looking for a good read on suspension, Fred Puhn's 'How to make your
>car handle' by HP books is worth a look. Explains the interaction of springs,
>shocks and swaybars, steering alignment, etc - and pokes a few holes in the
>510 trailing arm suspension design. Heck, I could even lend you my copy ( briefly
>! ).
>
>DF
>
>
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