Michael,
All the bolts on the R31 rear end you have to undo are metric so
you will need 10, 12, 14, 17 mm sockets, and the same size ring spanners,
a wheel brace, a slide hammer to get the axles out, pointy nose pliers
to get the retaining pins out of handbrake retainers on the callipers.
To make it easier to remove the handbrake cables, i suggest you remove
the protection plates from under the car. They are attached by heaps of
10 mm bolts and you'll need a the usual socket extension bars 3",
6" 10" and a universal drive doesn't go astray either.
terry
Michael Cassidy wrote:
I'll definetly have to do this then....what i need
to really know is how to get the disk and then the caliper mount off? And
what kinda tools am i gonna need??
Mick
Terry & Heather wrote:
Michael,
To keep your costs down try to get a set of rotors that haven't been
machined before and the ridge outside the pad clamping area is not very
noticeable. The minimum rotor thickness is 9.4 mm and new they are only
10.4 mm which isn't much to play with. We have found that if you can find
a few R31 cars then take your time, go prepared (tools etc.) and get the
best bits overall, i.e. a calliper (they are left & right) here &
a rotor (both sides the same) there. Also, when you get the hand brake
cables, check to see that they're not frozen solid, one of them has a spring
loaded doova in it and the other one is just like a 510 cable. The cables
are the first thing to go off these cars as the way that they are mounted
on the R31 they collect crap (btw this wont happen as badly on a 510 as
the calliper mounts around 12 o'clock.) You only need both of the R31 rear
cables past the "U" connection. I think that's about it, happy grinding
and wear eye protection.
When you have them in and bedded etc. make sure you allow a bit more
distance in front of you to the next car in processional driving. I'll
explain - it is to allow for the dickheads in Hyundai's and everything
else that drive up your bum as gentle braking exercise in a 4 disc 510
is a bloody 4 wheel lockup in a lot/most other cars. Most dopey city drivers
on the way to work cant imagine that a 510 can out brake a Club Spec Soobie
from 100 mph (and he had 3 goes in 5 minutes before he conceded) to give
you an idea on how quickly you'll be able to stop.
In closing make sure partners/gf's adjust their seat belts properly
as well - they ain't impressed when you jump on the stoppers and they "plunge"
into the belt (i think you know what i mean) (:- Inertia reels are the
way to go to avoid this problem.
regards
Terry
regards
Terry
Pete & Kath Liebig wrote:
Mick,Yep,
that's how I did it. You do need to remove the axles to get them off though.
Where are you? I know a wrecker in SA who has some.Same
goes for fitting them to the 1600 - the axles need to be removed - this
can be difficult if the "Jesus nuts" have not been taken off before!PL
How hard is it to remove the disk and caliper mount from the pintara/R31?
I mean can it be done in a wrecking yard (pick a Part)??
thanx
Mick
Pete & Kath Liebig wrote:
Dave,Strangely
enough - Pintara mounts!Just
got to weld up and redrill the 4 mounting holes, increase the size of the
centre hole marginally, and grind the backs of the bracket to clear the
A arms. Not too hard.PL
Trying to find out what mounts fit pintara
calipers to 1600 rear end. Thanks
Dave[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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