Trev,
The Bosch dissy comes in both points (L16 Stanza/200B/Bluebird 910
S1) and electronic (Bluebird 910 S2). To fit the electronic
variety to a L18/L20B you only need 2 longer 10 mm bolts to anchor
the dissy to the t/cover and some fairly simple wiring to get it
up and running. I regard the 910 S2 dissy as a worthwhile upgrade,
the advance curve for the pollution motor presents a problem or
two when you have a perky L18, but nothing a re-curve that can be
done at most engine dyno tuners or you can use trial and error and
have fun doing it yourself. There are some useful guides for
re-curving a dissy on the net, I think the Bluebirds US site have
a few fairly good tech articles and you will find the link from
the Ozdat Links page.
--
Terry
"You win some, you lose some, you wreck some."
Dale Earnhardt
> -----
> Terry,
>
> When you say the Bosch unit do you mean the electronic series 2
b'bird Hi
> energy type?
> If so I think I will give it a go.
>
> Trev
>
> =-=-=-=-==-=-=-=-
>
> Topic: Vacuum advance
> ================
> Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 23:39:25 +1000
> From: Terry & Heather <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> ----------------------------------------
> Craig,
> I take it you are running a single carb on the x-over mani - if
so you don't
> need the vac advance but block off the connection on the dizzy
with a bung
> and
> set you're initial advance a bit higher than stock. Somewhere
between 12 -
> 14
> degrees depending on which dizzy you've got. The SSS Hitachi is
the
> preferred
> points type, if it's a Bosch then you may have to run around 10
- 12
> degrees.
>
> Terry
>
> Craig Harris wrote:
>
> > Just got my carby tuned and the dude reckons that you dont
need vac
> advance
> > or it doesnt work when using delorto on a lynx mani because it
is to pulsy
> > and just jumps the advance around too much,
> >
> > any one on the list still using it??
> >
> > also what is involved with regraphing?
> >
> > craig
>
>
>
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