Thanx guys i'll give it a go.
ohh one more little question, can the R31 handbrake cables be used without
modifing them? i'm not real worried if they hang abit, i just need em to work
until i get something better worked out.
Michael
Terry & Heather wrote:
> Mike,
>
> I'd like to add a little bit to Pete's response on this subject as he
> actually taught me how to do it the first time (:- I adapted my variation
> to fitting the brackets as my 510 has standard half shafts but Pete's 510
> has CV's.
>
> I do the centre hole the same as way as Pete as imo it's the best way, it is
> very easy to do and with very little chance of making a mess of it. The
> centre hole doesn't need to be reamed out much, although I have never
> measured it can't be more than 2 mm or so.
>
> I do the 4 holes much the same way as Pete but with a couple of small
> differences in technique. I drill out the lower rear hole (on either side)
> using a 11 mm bit and use this bolt as a reference point for the bracket
> position and ream out very slightly the lower front hole so another flange
> bolt can be screwed in. Then I use a piece of clear plastic to make a
> template made from the drum backing plate and then attach the template to
> the bracket. I then set the job up in a drill press and drill the other 2
> holes, pretty simple really, take care to be accurate is the secret (someone
> told me to a long time ago to "measure twice and cut once" - good advice
> that) and has worked every time for me. The calliper position using this
> technique is all but 12 o'clock high which suites the hand brake cable route
> around the stock half shafts with outer flanges. Pete's conversion had to
> negotiate CV joints which look a bit easier than half shafts and therefore
> the calliper position could be a bit further rearward on his car and by the
> photos the callipers are a tad more rearward. The position that the
> callipers sit on the R31 is around 2.30 which is why the cables get full of
> mud and crap thrown up from the back wheels, so I reckon it's a bonus they
> sit higher on the 510.
>
> This is the important bit.
> When you redesign the brackets to fit the 510, you have to make sure that
> the bracket surface is flush with the flange as the calliper must mount
> absolutely square so the rotor passes through the pads in the absolute
> centre to wear the pads and just to operate correctly without binding etc.
> The brackets only go one way and that is with the curved edge facing the
> diff. Also, make sure the but up surfaces on the flange and the bracket are
> completely clear of grease and dirt.
>
> Unless the car is able to be off the road for a couple of days then
> modifying the brackets is best done with a spare rear end out of the car to
> reference when fitting as you need the axles removed to fit the bracket.
> There may be minor adjustments between cars mainly due to the quality of the
> welds around the bearing flange. I have found that some cars have a much
> thicker weld than others around the flange and if you have SSS A arms then
> the side welds are also in play but a small indent ground into the bracket
> gets around or more correctly over these.
>
> That's a fairly complete run down on the R31 rear bracket modifications
> required to fit a 510.
>
> regards
>
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pete & Kath
> Liebig
> Sent: Monday, 3 July 2000 5:14 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: 4 spot calliper brackets
>
> Mike, (sorry to butt in Terry)
>
> I just used the old backing plates (gotta carve them up a bit) as a template
> for the holes. Then you just clamp them together and re-drill the holes with
> a drill press.
>
> The big hole in the centre can be done easily with a pneumatic die grinder
> (porting tool) with a carbide bit.
>
> 'later
> PL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Michael Cassidy
> Sent: Monday, 3 July 2000 3:38
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: 4 spot calliper brackets
>
> Terry could you explain the mods done to the mounts and how you did it? I
> mean i
> don't know the best way to open up the centre hole and redrill the mounting
> holes. I've welded up the mount holes and thats all i've done so far.
>
> Michael
>
> Terry & Heather wrote:
>
> > Pete,
> > You're correct on the holes so I'm thinking I was flogged a grinding wheel
> > that was a bit soft. I had to buy a new one to do the last set of brackets
> I
> > machined as I had a drill bit wheel in the grinder that wouldn't have done
> > the job at all.
> >
> > Has anyone got tips on what grade grinding wheel is best for these
> brackets
> > as I have a few more to make up.
> >
> > regards
> > Terry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pete & Kath
> > Liebig
> > Sent: Sunday, 2 July 2000 7:41 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: RE: 4 spot calliper brackets
> >
> > Terry,
> >
> > Actually, I thought they were pretty soft! Especially for the re-drilling
> of
> > the holes.
> >
> > I really don't reckon the rear brakes do that much on a 510 anyway. I find
> > that the back tends to lock up very easily if I crank much bias rearward.
> > The front seems to be where it all matters. It would be interesting to put
> a
> > "line lock" in one day and see how it goes with ONLY front brakes!!
> >
> > PL
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Terry & Heather
> > Sent: Saturday, 1 July 2000 15:25
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: RE: 4 spot calliper brackets
> >
> > Pete,
> > I don't know whether the steel that the R31 rear bracket are made out is
> > indicative of the engineering requirements but you would have noticed that
> > when you grind a pair of them to fit a 1600 the end result is a very 2nd
> > hand grinding wheel.
> >
> > Terry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pete & Kath
> > Liebig
> > Sent: Saturday, 1 July 2000 3:24 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: RE: 4 spot caliper brackets
> >
> > Wojee,
> >
> > I just used "free machining mild steel". Depends on the design of the
> > bracket though. Mine were just straight, flat pieces about 6" or so long,
> > about 2" wide and 14mm thick. (sorry about the imperial/metric mix!)
> >
> > 'later
> > PL
> >
> > Hi fellas,
> > Has anyone on the list have any experience with fabricating caliper
> brakets?
> > I am interested in what material particularily? One piece? Two piece?
> > Any information would be greatly appreciated.
> > Thank you.
> > Wojee :O)
> >
> > * membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
> > OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:-
> > Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > No unauthorised redistribution of this email
> > http://www.datascribe.com.au/ozdatonline/index.htm
> > http://www.datascribe.com.au/ozdatonline/listindex.html
> > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/
> > ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
--membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:-
Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
No unauthorised redistribution of this email
http://www.datascribe.com.au/ozdatonline/index.htm
http://www.datascribe.com.au/ozdatonline/listindex.html
http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/
---------------------------------------------------------------------
