Daniel,
Make sure the resize/respline is induction hardened! My experience has been
that resplines that are not induction hardened after the
shortening/resplining usually fail in modestly high power applications even
for big axles. The resplining cuts through the case hardened outer skin of
the axle making it easily subject to failure unless induction hardened.
Flame hardening will not do as the hardened skin thickness is not as thick
as with induction process.
Cheers
Feral Errol
----------
From: Daniel Kroehn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: live axle mods 2
Date: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 4:45
I haven't had much experience in this field but I would definitely say that
a resize and RESPLINE is the way to go. Put it to you this way, my old
1600
rally car was involved in a mishap in the last race of its life. The
previous owner was out in front quite some distance and was rounding one of
the last corners. As the ass end came sliding around........Bang. The car
almost flipped and came to a standstill. Turns out the driveshaft
snapped(totally unmodified) taking out the rear shocky and causing
irreprepearable damage to the rear spring. Hate to think what damage a
welded driveshaft would have caused.
Daniel Kroehn
----- Original Message -----
From: Derek Franklin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: live axle mods 2
> List,
>
> when you have a live axle rear cut down to length the housing has to be
cut'n'shut
> on both sides, but what about the axles themselves ?
> Do you use the stock axles and cut the housing to suit, or can you
cut'n'shut
> or shorten and respline the donor axles ?
>
> Reason I ask is I have a TRX disc rear to fit to my 1600 wagon. Calipers
fit
> perfectly once the backing plate is redrilled and line up with the stock
handbrake
> linkages, but the disc-axles are slightly different ( from the wheel
bearings
> out ) as well as being too long.
>
> Any help appreciated,
> DF
>
>
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