Terry, The gapless ring is always fitted to the second ring land where it is not subject to direct fire from the combustion chamber. The ring is manufactured in two parts, The base section uses a ring shaped like an L laid on its side anticlockwise. On top of this section a second ring fits over the lip of the L with its gap 180 degrees from the gap on the L section. The end gaps are very critical! I have always had good success with these rings although some work shops that rush jobs through dont like them at all as they will blow smoke rapidly if you do not FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. The key to success is very careful end gapping and fitting. They are not a 2 minute fit and forget item. Another thing is they also develop much higher cylinder vacuums on closed throttle so your guides and stem seals need extra attention on build up. The gapless rings come in two types, 1. Using a Conventional chromium top ring and a moly gapless 2nd ring and conventional segmented oil control ring. These rings are normally used for street applications where ring life is of primary concern. The rings usually have about 12 - 14 lb wall tension to allow good oil control and bore sealing. 2. Using a ductile iron conventional style top ring with a moly gapless second ring and a segmented oil control ring. The ductile (bendable like fencing wire) iron top ring is great in high comp engines or in turbo engines where detonation and resulting fracturing of the top ring is a concern. With these rings in they are very forgiving and it will usually be a holed piston rather than catastrophic land and skirt failures. I also like Hastings rings as they are a great quality conventional ring., Cheers Feral Errol ---------- From: Terry & Heather <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Gapless rings Date: Saturday, July 29, 2000 12:12 Errol, Gapless ring sets is something that occasionally comes up on the Ozdat list. These are something that I've not knowingly used in the past as I mainly use Hastings CM's from the land of the good ole boys and I'm curious to learn a bit about them. Could you give us a brief run down on the pros and cons of the gapless type. For a start how do you fit them. Are they like a normal ring but just have zero gap? Are they suitable for a street engine or are they designed for use in a competition engine? tia Terry (Of course the invitation is open to other listers who wish to contribute.) -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Errol Smith Sent: Saturday, 29 July 2000 6:34 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: L20B and z22E? Chris & Brad, At that price it makes a grunter engine pretty affordable. Add $140 for a good ductile iron gapless ring set, $100 for bearings, $70 for gaskets and the cost of boring the block 3mm. Not bad at all, good cheap performance. Now about that 66m stroke, 88mmm bore special.................. Cheers Feral Errol ---------- From: Chris Halpin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: L20B and z22E? Date: Saturday, July 29, 2000 1:49 errol, I'll only buy those flower vases if I can see my reflection, so start polishing. But thanks heaps for getting that info. Farily cheap hey?!?! I'll definately be interested in any other info you get a hold of. chris >From: "Brad HALLETT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: L20B and z22E? >Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:52:49 +1000 > >Errol and Chis >I spoke with Import Advantage today, they have no 88mm in stock and only 2 >x >87mm. They put me on to Harding European at Rocklea Qld who could not do >enough for me. Price for kit (entire stroker kit VW 1600 etc part number >211198088) is estimated around the $400 mark, they had none in stock but >are >going to contact their suppliers. I will try and determine who their >supplier is Errol in case you want to deal straight with them. > >If they can get them I will buy a set and forward the blurb. I will also >polish up the sleeves that come with the kit, weld in bases, and sell them >to you as flower vases. What else can I do with VW sleeves? > >Regards >Brad > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Errol Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 8:01 PM >Subject: Re: L20B and z22E? > > > > Chris, > > I am trying to source a supply in Melbourne for Mahle. Also Brad is > > speaking to someone in Brisbane. There is no distributor in Melbourne at > > the moment so I am still looking. Valve reliefs (flycuts) are usually >only > > needed with the larger lift cams ) 0.300" and above. Although this is a > > relatively easy and cheap operation. > > Cheers > > Feral Errol > > > > ---------- > > From: Chris Halpin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: Re: L20B and z22E? > > Date: Thursday, July 27, 2000 7:34 > > > > errol, are they hard to get hold of in Melbourne? Also do valve reliefs > > need to be cut into them? > > cheers - chris > > > > > > >From: "Errol Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >Subject: Re: L20B and z22E? > > >Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 07:14:30 +1000 > > > > > >Terry, > > >Yep! I used to get them from a company in S.A. who has since gone bust. > > The > > >Mahle pistons are very bit as good as Cosworth IMHO. I have also used >them > > >in some Ford Kent and Escort Twin cam engines I have built with >excellent > > >results. > > >Cheers > > >Feral Errol > > > > > >---------- > > >From: Terry & Heather <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >Subject: RE: L20B and z22E? > > >Date: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 1:09 > > > > > >Brad, > > >There were are a lot of hypo L series $$$$ engines built in Canberra by >a > > >few well known local engineers in the Datto reign of terror in the > > forests, > > >one of the best worked (still did last contact) for a crowd called >Beetle > > >Exchange and used the spare parts dept for slugs. They were flat tops >and > > >there must have been a good reason for such a wide usage in competition > > >built engines. I don't know what vw these were out of but I'm sure >someone > > >on the list does. > > > > > >Errol? did they use vw slugs down your way? > > > > > >terry > > > > > >-----Original Message----- > > >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Brad HALLETT > > >Sent: Monday, 24 July 2000 5:19 PM > > >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >Subject: Re: L20B and z22E? > > > > > > > > >Heath > > >Which VW are these slugs out of? Also how heavy are they, and can you >get > > >them in 87mm as well? > > > > > >Thanks > > >Brad > > >----- Original Message ----- > > >From: "Heath" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 4:16 AM > > >Subject: Re: L20B and z22E? > > > > > > > > > > Z22 out of Nissan navara's > > > > run the Z22 crank 92mm stroke, Z22 rods and VW forged flat top mahle > > > > 88mm pistons, compression height of 35mm (standard L20b 38.1 or >38.3mm) > > >only > > > > are around $300 > > > > > > > > need open chamber heads > > > > > > > > i had 37cc chambers comp 14.1 : 1 > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: "Chris Halpin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; > > ><[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > Sent: Sunday, 23 July 2000 6:38 > > > > Subject: L20B and z22E? > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have a few questions for you L20b'ers out there: > > > > > > > > > > -what are the z22e pistons out of (if i didn't make them up), and >are > > >they > > > > > true flat tops? What diamteter are they, and what height is the >pin? > > >I > > > > > heard from someone/somewhere a few weeks ago that they can go into >a > > >bored > > > > > L20b block. are they any good? > > > > > > > > > > -does anyone have a decent L20b block for sale in Melbourne, > > >preferably > > > > > unbored or slightly oversized (doesn't matter about the condition >of > > >the > > > > > bore itself) > > > > > > > > > > -alternatively does anyone have an L20b engine that has had work >done > > >to > > > > it > > > > > already for sale > > > > > > > > > > -what other pistons (flat top or dome top) fit an oversized L20b > > (bore > > > > size > > > > > undecided as of yet) that are redily available and not overly > > >expensive? > > > > > > > > > > My aim it to build a good (powerful and relyable) L20b, without > > >braking > > > > the > > > > > budget too much, that I can drive on my P's in Melbourne. > > > > > > > > > > thanks heaps for any info in advance. > > > > > > > > > > CHRIS 'I've already decided my 2 day old L16 doesn't have ANYWHERE > > >NEAR > > > > > enough power' HALPIN > > > > > > > > >________________________________________________________________________ > > > > > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at > > >http://www.hotmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > This message comes to you from the Datsun 510 mailing list. > > > > > List rules and instructions are available at: > > > > > http://bluebirds.datsun510.com/bluebirds/listcharter > > > > > Authors retain implicit copyright to their material. Obtain > > > > > permission from the author before redistributing messages. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
