Malcom,
I have the housings done on a laser alignment jig. They can be adjusted to
0.1 degrees camber or 0.1mm toe specs.
But you are right the handling difference is amazing!
Cheers
Feral Errol
----------
From: malcolm cooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: FeralDatRat (Long)
Date: Sunday, August 20, 2000 9:22
The axle housing can be modified to give some negative camber
and toe in with no deleterious effects. On both circuit and dirt
this
mod improves rear end handling and straight line stability.
Typical cost are $250 to $350 for cleaned housings for alignment
only.
I liked this bit!!!!!above
I've done this the Kiwi way, just stick your diff housing in a big press
and bend it.
I did this to a Mk2 Pusort sport I had a few years back,handed much
better,after I sold it the guy who brought it asked ,since it has
235x60x13" on it how does the insides of the rear wheels where out
before the outside of the tyre?.
Best looking 1600 sport this side of the ditch,candy apple red with gold
pearl heaps of clear and a full body fit with side skirts the lot,rear
boot spoiler was like a SS dunnydore wrap around ,13x7" minilites,235x60
on rear 205x60 on front.
But it was a ford and the gear box was like glass till I fitted the 2.0L
cortina one,,Yes they do fit with the ade of a disc grinder.
Malcolm
Errol Smith wrote:
>
> Malcom,
> I sell them. Check out the website (www.datrats.com.au, or 203.33.35.34
if
> no luck that way.
> Cheers
> Feral Errol
>
> ----------
> From: malcolm cooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: FeralDatRat (Long)
> Date: Saturday, August 19, 2000 1:17
>
> Errol,
> any idea on where these little crank pullys are available?
>
> As for elec fuel pump I'm going back to a new stock one as I found at
> 7500+Rpm in top it was missing/breaking down I put this down to not
> enough fuel,at top end.
> But that brings up the other piont, manual pump might/probly does
> cavitate at high rpm as well,just like the water pump.
> OR
> New idea,
> Fuel tank-elec fuel pump-ice can-fuel line to engine bay-1 litre alloy
> tank-elec fuel pump-to the carb's.Return line from both carbs back to
> the alloy 1 litre tank.
> The engine bay tank will fit up under the battery box(made to suit)
>
> What do you think?
> Malcolm
>
> Errol Smith wrote:
> >
> > Justin,
> > One a normal engine the crank has a 200mm pulley on the crank, a 100mm
> > water pump pulley and a 50mm alternator pulley.
> > (For every 1000 engine rpm, alternator 4000 rpm water pump 2000 rpm).
> These
> > alternator & water pump speeds are OK for mum tootling around town at
> 1500
> > rpm in top gear with the aircon going ,1000 watt stereo cranked right
up,
> > headlights on etc as the alternator needs to be spinning at 6- 8000 rpm
> to
> > produce enough current to run all these appliances. The conventional
> > alternator looses generation efficiency over about 8-10000 rpm.
> >
> > On a vehicle used mostly between 2000 - 7000rpm an alternator turning
at
> > up to 28000 rpm is like having a brake on you engine. The water pump
> speed
> > is a similar problem as the stock water pump starts to cavitate after
> about
> > 8000 rpm (4000 rpm crank speed ). This is why companies have brought
out
> > electric water pumps for cars, because the water pump chews the most
> power
> > when it is needed least. On sporting engines used through a wider
engine
> > speed range, you do not need the low engine speed power generating and
> > cooling capacity.
> >
> > By fitting a half size (100mm) crank pulley, you slow the alternator
and
> > water pumps down to half speed reducing the amount of power these items
> rob
> > from your engine. (With 100mm crank pulley, engine 1000 rpm, alternator
> > 2000 rpm water pump 1000 rpm). The inertia load on the engine is halved
> > making it more responsive, freeing up some kilowatts that would have
been
> > used to spin these components at high speed.
> >
> > If your vehicle only has a low electrical load and is used for race or
> > highway cruising most of the time, fitting a larger alternator pulley
> > (100mm) will further reduce engine load.
> >
> > Most race cars used for sprint meetings or hillclimbs do not run an
> > alternator and use an electric water pump and a thermo fan. This saves
> them
> > up to 5-6 Kw at 8000 rpm engine speeds from a stock fixed blade setup.
I
> > run a 100mm alternator pulley and small crank pulley on my daily driver
> in
> > city traffic using all normal accessories (stereo and heater fan etc
rear
> > screen demister) all the time and never have any electrical problems
> even
> > at night with all lights on.
> >
> > A normal flywheel stores energy so when you take off from a standing
> start,
> > even at low engine speeds the engine will not stall due to the heavy
> > flywheel's inertia. With a light flywheel you have to use more engine
> speed
> > and a balanced clutch/throttle action to start moving. The technique
> > requires a little practice at the start to get used to but also allows
> > faster starts and much quicker engine response.. Also during gear
> shifts,
> > engine speed drops very rapidly. This means quicker shifts and reduced
> > synchro loadings but requires more skill to not "miss a gear".
> > The fuel pumps are electrical, internal 6 micron filter, same as the
> Nismo
> > item.
> > Cheers
> > Feral Errol
> >
> > ----------
> > From: justin darragh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: FeralDatRat
> > Date: Friday, August 18, 2000 12:42
> >
> > Feral,
> > Could you explain the L-series crank and alt. pulleys to me. What are
> they
> > for. Also the flywheel, why race only? Are the fuel pumps stock
fitment?
> > What are your recommendations for a clutch on a turbo
set-up(L16/4speed)?
> > Thanx
> > Justin
> >
________________________________________________________________________
> > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com
> >
>
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