G'day Errol et. al.
**stands on soap box**
One of the main performance advantages of the Datsun is the front suspension
design.
Because the inner pivot points for the toe-control arm, transverse arm and
steering arm all line up, the whole suspension system behaves as a big
A-arm, with all components swinging through the same arc.
And because the outer strut ball-joint and steering knuckle ball-joint line
up, there is (or should be) no inherent bump-steer.
If you look at most other cars, even older formula cars, the steering arms
are not in the same longitudinal plane as a/the suspension arm, i.e inherent
bump steer.
**steps down**
I can't see why the spacers you are talking about are called bump-steer
spacers. My understanding is that they will a) give more roll-camber change,
i.e. more neg camber in turns at the expense of increased scrub (track
variation) and b) increase the roll centre height.
If they are mounted between the strut and the steering knuckle they will
have no bump-steer effect.
yeah?
What is involved in the mono-ball adjustable transverse arm that was
mentioned in this thread? Is it a DIY or DI-mostly-Y proposition?
I have been researching getting adjustable strut tops made up, but there is
so little space in the Stanza towers that I think the money is better spent
on longer/adjustable transverse arms.
My intention was to install Bluebird struts into my Stanza, but as you
mentioned (Errol) the steering arms use different size ball joints. To use
this setup I would need an adapter sleeve with accurately machined tapers,
or different tie-rod ends - any ideas?
Otherwise I'll have to use 200b struts or something.
I am interested in the adjustable spring platforms and springs that you
mentioned on your website, and possibly the S3 TRX axle if it is LSD.
When will they be available, and how much?
Regards,
Nick
----- Original Message -----
From: Errol Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: Front suspension for racing
> Only way to go on a race car!
> It allows the lower arm to pivot on the control arm pivot shaft with no
> side loading on the shaft due to increased caster.
> Cheers
> Feral Errol
>
> ----------
> From: Craig Harris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Front suspension for racing
> Date: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 8:30
>
>
> Are
> "rod ends where the lower control arm joins the crossmember"
>
> like threaded rose joints? I would be interested to see who has done these
> on a 510 and what they think about them. a mate has just done them on a
> toyo
> and they look pretty trick
>
> any thoughts/experiences??
>
>
>
>
> >From: "Pooley, Trevor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Subject: Front suspension for racing
> >Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 16:18:40 +0930
> >
> >Unless you fork out $1600 for a set of 55DCO/SP Webers from DatRats (
> >drooooool ). I agree!
> >
> >Talking about datrats. I've just recieved a set of 30mm bump steer
spacers
> >from Datrats (one tenth the cost of the 55's). They look real good (nice
> >shinny alloy) and will restore some angle to my lower control arms after
> >the
> >lowering job I did last week before phillip Island. I had some minor bump
> >steer there.
> >
> >This leads to my next question. There was some talk a little while back
> >about the location of the pivot point on the engine crossmember.
> Apparently
> >the early model had these higher up than the latter models. Can anyone
> >confirm this? Also after looking at the pics of the busted cross member,
> is
> >it worth modifying mine or just looking for a good early 1600
crossmember?
> >Does the distance between the two pivot points change as well or just the
> >height?
> >
> >Other thing I want to do is make new adjustable lower control arms to
> >replace the datrally ones I am currently using. I would like to either go
> >for a monoball arrangement (ie How to hotrod your datsun book) or rod
ends
> >where the lower control arm joins the crossmember. This would allow for
> >lots
> >of positive castor without stressing the pivot point. Does anyone know of
> a
> >cheap source for these parts.
> >
> >I am also looking into making a rear sway bay (ie How to hotrod your
> datsun
> >book) but that might be asking a little to much too soon.
> >
> >Thanks
> >Trev
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
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