Hi Richard,
I had a look under the car today and took some measurements. The lower
control arms are pointing downwards towards the strut by about 10-15
degrees. Its a '69 model so I presume it has the crossmember with higher
pivot points, although I don't have anything to compare with.
I measured the height from the hub centre to the wheel arch:
Front: 345mm
Rear: 335mm
It is sitting quite high and doesn't look lowered at all.
It has 13 inch wheels with 185/60 tyres.
I will measure the toe this weekend.
Cheers,
Chris
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Clough
> Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 7:32 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Bump steering
>
>
> If your car is lowered by 3cms. it's most likely bump steering.
> Look under
> the front at the control arms, these are the arms running from the engine
> cross member to the lower end of the strut. If these arms are near
> horizontal or sloping upward toward the strut end, that's your
> problem. You
> correct by either:
> 1 Raising the hight of the front end back to standard.
> 2 Lowering the outer end of the control arms with specially fabricated
> lowering "blocks" fitted between the steering arm and the control arm.
> (Refer to Errol)
> 3 Raising the inner pivot point of the control arm by relocating the bolt
> through the cross member to a higher location (Some owners also move these
> outward to increase negative camber)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "uniken" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tuesday, 26 September 2000 23:09 PM
> Subject: RE: brakes
>
>
> > Thanks heaps for the replies Richard and Terry. My car does have a
> booster,
> > so probably as you suggested it has had a 240k swap. The braking seems
> very
> > good, and pulls up heaps better than most other cars. (Maybe I just need
> > some more horsepower hehe).
> >
> > Today I got my spluttering carbies sorted out... running nicely now, so
> now
> > it's onto the next problem. The car seems to tramline a lot.
> Sometimes its
> > swerving all over the road when braking for a set of lights where the
> trucks
> > have made the road all lumpy. What causes this sort of problem. I'm
> guessing
> > its got toe out or not enough toe in. It seems worse under
> brakes so maybe
> > the castor arm bushes are worn. What should I look out for? I'm going to
> > have a look at it this weekend.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Chris Howard
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
> Richard Clough
> > > Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 8:05 PM
> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Subject: Re: brakes
> > >
> > >
> > > Your mate is right on both accounts. Your twin piston Sumitomos
> suggests
> > > your front struts are probably off a 240K Coupe. 240K Sedans
> > > didn't have the
> > > twin pistons. These bolt in to the 1600 but you should also
> have a 240K
> > > master cylinder. If you also have a power booster this would
> > > confirm there
> > > is a swap.
> > > The 'tapered pads' are for original 1600/180B calipers that pivoted at
> one
> > > end and were installed at an angle to the disc rotor when fitted with
> new
> > > pads. The caliper became parallel to the disc when the pads wore out.
> >
>
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