Ryan,
The following is a guide to fitting a L series cam chain with the timing
cover removed. It's more difficult with the chain adjuster held in place
with a chock but not impossible. The procedure is a little different as you
can't use the timing marks on the chain as it is locked in place. If you
remove a head and don't intend to remove the timing cover i.e. use the chock
method, you should always rotate the engine to TDC before the head is
removed to facilitate easy re-assembly of the cam sprocket.
The L engine cam sprocket has 3 different sets of timing marks on it i.e.
numbered 1, 2 & 3 that allow for the cam timing to be adjusted for chain
stretch. The chain timing marks are on the outer extremities of the camshaft
sprocket. Then there are the 3 timing marks on the camshaft sprocket boss
where the dowel in the end of the cam locks into the sprocket. The third lot
of timing marks on the camshaft sprocket are the "V" notches that are used
to check the cam timing against the notch in the thrust plate. The method
that Nissan devised works a treat as the angle between the cam dowel holes
on the boss and the V notches are all slightly different. The timing chain
has 2 links with "O" timing marks that on a L16/L18 chain are 42 links
apart. The last timing mark is located on the crank cam chain drive at
around 5:30 when the crank is at TDC.
If you were to fit a chain from scratch you align the bottom chain "O" link
to the timing tooth on the bottom wheel and then insert the cam sprocket
with the top "O" chain link on the #1 tooth mark. Then you attach the cam
wheel to the cam using the #1 dowel hole.
Note. The standard chain timing position with a new chain from the factory
is position 1.
Now you do steps 3 & 4 from the original posting. If the "V" notch doesn't
align with the thrust plate notch, then you repeat the process above but
this time you use #2 settings.
I never recommend that you use setting 3 on the L series engines as there is
not enough adjustment in the tensioner especially if the heel is worn which
can result in the cam chain fowling the guides to the point where they are
fairly easily destroyed usually when the engine is on over run. Also the
chain can rattle at low rpm as the adjuster is driven by oil pressure.
If you would find the relative section from the workshop manual useful I
could scan it for you. It has pictures so it could be a bit clearer for you
to follow.
regards
Terry
Terry,
After doing steps 4 and 5 the "V" notch didn't align with the indent on the
cam thrust plate.
The v notch is at approximately 10:00 and the number on the sprocket where
the cam dowel is located is 3 (as the indent is sort of midway between 2 and
3 I have assumed that 3 is the number required as 2 would mean that the cam
lobes will no longer be facing upwards). Where do I go from here?
Ryan
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