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Richard,
As far
as rear disc conversions go the R31 is easy. The price range for the bits is
usually around $150 - $250 depending upon condition. Tend to be cheaper at a
U-Pull. I've attached an early email that's got a good rundown on the mods to
the brackets. The handbrake is the tricky bit and the cables are usually sold
separately at an additional cost (sometime considerable as Skyline/Pintara
owners are after them too). The made to measure bolt on ones that Matt told us
about in Sydney for $140 sounds like a great idea to me. All up with machining,
new pads etc you should come in under $500 which is very good
value.
regards
Terry
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Mike, I'd like to add a little bit to Pete's response on this subject as he actually taught me how to do it the first time (:- I adapted my variation to fitting the brackets as my 510 has standard half shafts but Pete's 510 has CV's. I do the centre hole the same as way as Pete as imo it's the best way, it is very easy to do and with very little chance of making a mess of it. The centre hole doesn't need to be reamed out much, although I have never measured it can't be more than 2 mm or so. I do the 4 holes much the same way as Pete but with a couple of small differences in technique. I drill out the lower rear hole (on either side) using a 11 mm bit and use this bolt as a reference point for the bracket position and ream out very slightly the lower front hole so another flange bolt can be screwed in. Then I use a piece of clear plastic to make a template made from the drum backing plate and then attach the template to the bracket. I then set the job up in a drill press and drill the other 2 holes, pretty simple really, take care to be accurate is the secret (someone told me to a long time ago to "measure twice and cut once" - good advice that) and has worked every time for me. The calliper position using this technique is all but 12 o'clock high which suites the hand brake cable route around the stock half shafts with outer flanges. Pete's conversion had to negotiate CV joints which look a bit easier than half shafts and therefore the calliper position could be a bit further rearward on his car and by the photos the callipers are a tad more rearward. The position that the callipers sit on the R31 is around 2.30 which is why the cables get full of mud and crap thrown up from the back wheels, so I reckon it's a bonus they sit higher on the 510. This is the important bit. When you redesign the brackets to fit the 510, you have to make sure that the bracket surface is flush with the flange as the calliper must mount absolutely square so the rotor passes through the pads in the absolute centre to wear the pads and just to operate correctly without binding etc. The brackets only go one way and that is with the curved edge facing the diff. Also, make sure the but up surfaces on the flange and the bracket are completely clear of grease and dirt. Unless the car is able to be off the road for a couple of days then modifying the brackets is best done with a spare rear end out of the car to reference when fitting as you need the axles removed to fit the bracket. There may be minor adjustments between cars mainly due to the quality of the welds around the bearing flange. I have found that some cars have a much thicker weld than others around the flange and if you have SSS A arms then the side welds are also in play but a small indent ground into the bracket gets around or more correctly over these. That's a fairly complete run down on the R31 rear bracket modifications required to fit a 510. regards Terry -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pete & Kath Liebig Sent: Monday, 3 July 2000 5:14 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: 4 spot calliper brackets Mike, (sorry to butt in Terry) I just used the old backing plates (gotta carve them up a bit) as a template for the holes. Then you just clamp them together and re-drill the holes with a drill press. The big hole in the centre can be done easily with a pneumatic die grinder (porting tool) with a carbide bit. 'later PL -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Michael Cassidy Sent: Monday, 3 July 2000 3:38 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: 4 spot calliper brackets Terry could you explain the mods done to the mounts and how you did it? I mean i don't know the best way to open up the centre hole and redrill the mounting holes. I've welded up the mount holes and thats all i've done so far. Michael Terry & Heather wrote: > Pete, > You're correct on the holes so I'm thinking I was flogged a grinding wheel > that was a bit soft. I had to buy a new one to do the last set of brackets I > machined as I had a drill bit wheel in the grinder that wouldn't have done > the job at all. > > Has anyone got tips on what grade grinding wheel is best for these brackets > as I have a few more to make up. > > regards > Terry > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pete & Kath > Liebig > Sent: Sunday, 2 July 2000 7:41 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: RE: 4 spot calliper brackets > > Terry, > > Actually, I thought they were pretty soft! Especially for the re-drilling of > the holes. > > I really don't reckon the rear brakes do that much on a 510 anyway. I find > that the back tends to lock up very easily if I crank much bias rearward. > The front seems to be where it all matters. It would be interesting to put a > "line lock" in one day and see how it goes with ONLY front brakes!! > > PL > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Terry & Heather > Sent: Saturday, 1 July 2000 15:25 > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: RE: 4 spot calliper brackets > > Pete, > I don't know whether the steel that the R31 rear bracket are made out is > indicative of the engineering requirements but you would have noticed that > when you grind a pair of them to fit a 1600 the end result is a very 2nd > hand grinding wheel. > > Terry > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pete & Kath > Liebig > Sent: Saturday, 1 July 2000 3:24 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: RE: 4 spot caliper brackets > > Wojee, > > I just used "free machining mild steel". Depends on the design of the > bracket though. Mine were just straight, flat pieces about 6" or so long, > about 2" wide and 14mm thick. (sorry about the imperial/metric mix!) > > 'later > PL > > Hi fellas, > Has anyone on the list have any experience with fabricating caliper brakets? > I am interested in what material particularily? One piece? Two piece? > Any information would be greatly appreciated. > Thank you. > Wojee :O) > > * membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- > OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- > Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] > No unauthorised redistribution of this email > http://www.datascribe.com.au/ozdatonline/index.htm > http://www.datascribe.com.au/ozdatonline/listindex.html > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.datascribe.com.au/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.datascribe.com.au/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
