The easiest would be a suck-thru L20b turbo, the turbo bits would probably cost probably $750-$1000 (custom exhaust manifold, turbo, tubing from turbo to stock intake manifold, carby to suck thru), then you'd have to find a good stock L20b. Remember that the L20b was never sold with a turbo so it may take the shop some fiddling to get it right. The Z18 would be around $1300 for the motor inc ECU etc. The Z18 uses EFI, so you need to upgrade your fuel system to suit (~$400). Both are a pretty easy fit into a 1600, you need your L16 sump for the L20b, and your L16 sump with some mods for the Z18. Most good shops will have done plenty of L20b/Z18 swaps since they're both very popular. For both swaps you need a good exhaust good brakes etc. For the Z18 you will probably need an engineering certificate, maybe for the L20b too depending on how tough the authorities are in your area! Check out the file I attached which was compiled by Terry Rudd from this list, it's got a comprehensive run down of costs. As to which one is faster, assuming you chose a sensible size for the turbo, the L20b will probably have stronger torque than the stock Z18 down low in the rev range due to its longer stroke, but the Z18 will probably rev better. I doubt either would be much faster than the other, but the Z18 definately has more potential since you can intercool it, wind the wick up and use aftermarket engine management. If you want to wind the boost up on the L20b you should probably rebuild the motor with lower compression (costly) and use water injection. That's the benefit you get for the extra cost of the Z18. It all depends on just how fast you want to go! Which city are you in? Perhaps some listers can recommend some good workshops in your area - Tom -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, 24 February 2001 3:14 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: 1600 engine conversions i own a datsun 1600 and i am looking to put either a L20T or a Z18T. which one would give me the best performance all round but mainly from standing start.Also does anyone know how much it would cost for the whole conversion. (none of the work done by myself).Any other suggestions welcome. I have about $4000 to $4500 to spend all up. some how i dont think it is enough. ------------------------------------------------------------- Sign up for ICQmail at http://www.icq.com/icqmail/signup.html --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------From: Terry & Heather [[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Friday, 30 June 2000 7:10 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Turbo Conversion costs for a 510
Re-posted as requested on 17/5/2000
terry,
could you please dig up that costing breakdown bc I reckon there would be a
few of us out there interested
thanks
andrew
Terry & Heather wrote:
I have gathered some information over a period of time that details what it costs to build a street legal 510 with one of the popular turbo engines. Let's say we have a bog stock straight bodied road regd. 510 and are looking at converting it with an FJ20DET. I picked the FJ simply because it is the only engine I have installed myself from go to whoa.
Note. Any Nissan Turbo would be a fairly similar outlay engineering wise, you would need to adjust the purchase price of the particular engine.
Here is a run down if you and your mates do most of the work using some 2nd hand parts (wreckers prices, U-Pulls tend to be cheaper on some things) and buying some fairly mid range quality bits that this sort of conversion deserves and most engineers require for "that" important piece of paper.
FJ20DET non intercooled complete with standard computer & 5 speed box $2300 - $2600
Upgrade to standard factory intercooled $200 - $300
Fitting kit (exchange tailshaft & xmember) $700; add $200 for outright or DIY ~$200
N13 Pulsar alloy radiator 2nd hand $100 - $125, new $250 - $300Front Brake Upgrade to solid e.g. 200B:
2nd hand struts complete $100 - $200
Lowered springs & GT gas inserts and wheel alignment $300 - $800 (> quality)
Machine discs & new pads (standard) $100
Upgrade to 180B SSS Tokico or Nabco dual 3/4" master cylinder and Bendix booster $100 - $150
Optional Front Brake Upgrade to vented :
(i.e. for NSW using Verada rotors & VL Commodore callipers, need 74 mm late 180B struts) $500Exhaust:
factory turbo exhaust flange & down pipe $50
3" average quality to xmember & 2.5" tailpipe, cat convertor & turbo muffler $500 - $1000 (> quality)Rear axle:
R180 open differential & half shafts $200 e.g. C210 Skyline 3.9:1Electrics:
Relocate battery to boot in approved manner (fixed & vented box if standard type open vent battery used) with single cable to engine bay $130
Miscellaneous relays and wiring, connectors etc. $200Fuel System:
Surge tank & HP Pump $100 - $250 (bit of a range here, Gazelle pump in tank is cheap & effective, 2nd hand HP Bosch (VL) & separate surge tank ~$100 & $120 respectively, complete combined unit ~$200)
LP pump, relay & HP fuel lines $75 - $100Wheels & Tyres:
4 x 2nd hand basic 5.5"x14" Skyline steel rims $50
4 x 2nd hand 185/65 or 195/60 < 1/2 worn $100 - $250+ (quality imports are around $60 per tyre)Engineering:
Big range here and varies by State a lot, min is ~$500 to $1200+ (thieves), ballpark is ~$750Sundry Items:
Accelerator cable, remote brake bits, hoses, plugs, filters, oil etc. etc. ~$300The cost for "red ($3775) + common green" ($2380) highlighted items: $6155
The cost for "blue ($6125) + common green" ($2380) highlighted items: $8505What have I missed: $???
Extras: (not an exhaustive list, just some popular upgrades)
Mags & tyres $1300
Aftermarket ECU ~$1300 (Wolf 3D)
Lights, CD, Amp ~$1000
Seats & Interior ~$500+ (fairly basic seats)
Respray $1,200 - $5000+
Rear discs (R31) ~$300
Nolathane bushes ~$300
Tinted glass 3M ~$250
LSD ~$1200
Dyno time: ~$60 /hr
Adjustable front end (castor rods & camber plates) ~$500That 'll do for starters, I think any prospective 510 Turbo convertors will get a bit of an idea from this and you can see why the L series is still very popular and will more than likely always continue to be so and there's nothing wrong with that (IMHO).
regards
Terry
--membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:-
Send (un)subscribe requests to
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Send submissions to
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
No unauthorised redistribution of this email
http://www.datascribe.com.au/ozdatonline/index.htm
http://www.datascribe.com.au/ozdatonline/listindex.html
http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/
---------------------------------------------------------------------
