Justin,
The L18SSS engine should have an A87 head and not a U67. I'd recommend that
you use the SSS head and cam on whatever block you can salvage from your
bits. The U heads were not normally used on L18's here anyway except for
some pollution '76 180B models, also some were fitted with W53 heads but the
good head is the A87 or V912 which still can be found in the wrecking yards.
If you have to get one from the wreckers check that you can read all of the
NISSAN JAPAN writing on the plug side so you get a serviceable one.
regards
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Justin
Friedrichs
Sent: Wednesday, 14 March 2001 3:14
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: Streetable L20 ... Was L20B Headwork
HI LIST
I'M currently building a L18 180B rally car. I have one motor that
blows heaps of smoke and another SSS L18 that has siezed really badly like
rusty cam even when the rocker cover and cap is on.
I have bought a re-ring kit, the smokey L18 has a U67 head but is not the
peanut style it also has smaller ports than the siezed U67. The SSS has got
flat tops, if they are OK, would it be worth mucking around with them and
putting them in the smokey motor with new rings? I'm hoping theSSS head is
OK, I'm sure the cam just needs a polish.
Has anyone got advice for my next step to build the motor. What parts should
I use?
P.S. I'm hoping just the bottom end of the SSS is stuffed
Thanks guys
Justin
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Terry Rudd [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Wednesday, 14 March 2001 14:21
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: Streetable L20 ... Was L20B Headwork
>
> Gooday Bruce,
> I didn't think it would be too long before you were after more poke.
>
> I'll presume your L20 has an open chambered head like a U67, hopefully
> it's
> not a W58. If it's an open chamber then you are a bit limited to what CR
> you
> can run with Optimax in a Datto without running a wildish cam or welding
> up
> the chambers to improve the poor squish in this head, somewhere around the
> 270 degree mark would be a minimum which is still fairly streetable in
> Canberra but it will be cranky in the -10 mornings. I'd lose the SU's and
> get your webers going (I'll help you with them if you require). You might
> consider a 41cc A87 closed chamber head with the ports opened up to 38mm
> and
> have decent inlet valves fitted (say 42mm or you can go nuts and fit
> 242N's,
> ~45mm?). With the A87 head from my experiences over the past months with
> it
> you can run up to 10.5:1 on LRP or PULP and no probs at all with Optimax
> (nice fuel, I've nearly got busted badly a few times around here on this
> stuff, they've gone camera crazy lately) even with a B2 SSS cam and Weber.
>
> If your not doing much with the block then the A87 head is worth a think
> about as the standard dished pistons would still give you a decent CR and
> I'll work it out for you if you wish.
>
> How's the rest of the car settling down, no major dramas I hope (did you
> sort out your master cylinder (I haven't spoken to you for a while)?
>
> till later
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bruce Ferguson
> Sent: Wednesday, 14 March 2001 10:55
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Streetable L20 ... Was L20B Headwork
>
>
> List,
>
> This one should create some discussion.
>
> I have a L20 in the shed and am thinking of rebuilding
> it into a "grunty but very streetable engine" but
> needs to run on Optimax or Premium Unleaded (without
> running on !!!).
>
> What is the go for... cam, bores, pistons, head work,
> etc etc. Compression ratio of 9.5.1 - 10:1 is about as
> far as I want to go. I know there are differing
> opinions out there but with my requirements as stated
> above they should be reasonably close.
>
> I envisage twin carbs (love induction noise), an
> electronic dizzy, elect fuel pump, all of which I have
> ready to go.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Cheers
>
> Bruce
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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>
>
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