If thats the case is there anyone in Sydney that could help me tune my
SU's? I have taken them to Datspeed but they seem to quickly go out of
tune and I dont drive very hard (only occasionally) so whats the deal?
Maybe theres something that needs replacing in them?
Anyway I live in St Marys (near Penrith) and would appeciate anyone that
could help me out as I'm an eager learner.

Cheers,
Anthony

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Clough [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: 26 March 2001 22:16
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: L20B mods.


I agree, SU's are the carbs for road performance and fuel economy, they
dont
have inbuilt power jets primed with an accelerator pump.  They dont come
on
really hard but they let an engine breathe a lot better than a stock
carby
set up.
You should easily get 9 litres/100Kms or 30 plus MPG. with performance
that
will surprise your V8 Commodore punters.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Cassidy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, 24 March 2001 23:58 PM
Subject: Re: L20B mods.


> I've used Su's before, good carbs, better performance, Great induction
noise and
> they DONT use alot of petrol, Actually i think the economy didn't
change
much at
> all with the change to su's... Trust me give em a go.
>
> "Paul W. J. Stanley" wrote:
>
> > Thanks for the info Ken. I'm thinking of adding a few 'bits' to my
1981
200B
> > L20B. Does anyone know the difference between the L20Bs that came
out in
> > various Datsuns? I guess the 'desirable features' is all you need to
know.
> >
> > I can get some extractors and the electronic ignition. Is there a
different
> > water pump for the auto? My motor is from an automatic. I can also
get
the
> > clutch and flywheel, and a 'big' cam. That's the only info my friend
has
> > about it...he says it's extreme.
> >
> > I wouldn't mind DIY port work too...might look into that. I've got a
ye
olde
> > carby...I dont think I'll get twin SUs because I'm a cheapskate on
fuel
(you
> > have to use PULP with 9.5:1 don't you?)
> >
> > Paul
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Ken Abraham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 3:47 PM
> > Subject: Re: L20B mods.
> >
> > > G'day all,
> > >
> > > Some things to consider for a mild L20B
> > > I have done these things to my motor and am reasonably happy with
the
> > > results, there is a significant increase in performance and change
of
> > > 'character' compared to stock L20B.
> > > I have included approximate prices if you get parts from U-Pull
and
> > Trading
> > > post.
> > >
> > > 1. Start with S2 Bluebird Motor (check for bore wear!). Desirable
features
> > > include, big valves, 264degree SSS camshaft, strong crank, lowish
mileage.
> > > cost 2nd hand $100
> > > 2. Electronic Ignition (From some Bluebirds) cost $50
> > > 3. Automatic transmission water pump and fan (i.e viscous clutch,
fan
does
> > > not spin faster than 2500 Rpm) cost $25
> > > 4. 6 cylinder flywheel and clutch (1 kilo lighter, bigger clutch,
very
> > > noticable performance boost in 1st gear) ;) cost $40
> > > 5. Extractors. cost $ 50 - $100
> > > 6. Twin SU (Genuine) carburettors on SSS manifold. cost ~$150
> > > 7. Port work. Open inlets to 1.5 inches for SSS manifold, modify
horrible
> > > factory exaust port. cost ~$10 for bits and pieces needed to DIY
> > > 8. Shave head ~1mm to increase compression to about 9.5:1  cost
~$30
> > > 9. Gasket kit and sundries cost ~$150
> > >
> > > All up about $600 - less if you shop around and buy wisely.
> > > Regards,
> > > Nick
> > > 1978 Datsun Stanza
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Brian K. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: Thudd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Sent: Friday, 23 March 2001 3:06 PM
> > > Subject: Newbie
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hello all on the list!
> > > >
> > > > I have an old faithful 180B which has served me well for many
years,
> > > > however the engine is now approaching the end of its life.  I
could
get
> > it
> > > > rebuilt, but for not much more I can get a new engine and have
that
> > > > done.  I asked one workshop on the recommended option, and he
suggested
> > an
> > > > L20B motor.  This seems like a good option to me; it's an easy
swap
and
> > > I'm
> > > > not trying to make a performance car out of it, just something
with
a
> > > > little more urge than normal.  However, anything that I *can*
get
out of
> > > > it, I *will* (within a fairly tight budget; I don't want to
spend
heaps
> > > and
> > > > gain little).
> > > >
> > > > So what advice can anyone give on an L20B swap into an 180B?
What
can
> > be
> > > > done to the engine during a rebuild that would extract a little
more
> > > power,
> > > > without going overboard?  By 'overboard', I mean I'm not
interested
in
> > > > building some 200HP race-ready monster.  This is my daily
driver,
and
> > > > spends most of its time doing a highway commute.
> > > >
> > > > The workshop suggested putting a different head on the motor; I
can't
> > > > remember which one but he said it'd be about $400 extra
(including
> > > > polishing etc).  A new exhaust system will definitely go on, I
just
> > don't
> > > > know what yet.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > >
> > > > Brian K.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>


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