Leigh. Richard hit nearly every nail on the head. I will just add on more thing from personal experiance. If you can hold out for on try to find a auto 1600 inn original condition atleast you can see the rust that is there.( Please don't buy a hott on) as they are guarenteed to be full off bog and left over rust. they seem to be in a hell of alot better ccondition as most people don't try to thrash a auto. I hope this helps you a bit. Rick White. --- "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > wrote: >Leigh >If you can find a 68/9 model it should be imported. Check the body id on >the LHstrut tower if it has a Japan address on the bottom, your chances of >sever rust are lower . These imported bodies although slightly older, rust >less. > >If you prefer the newer looking round dials of the 70/72 models then check >for rust as follows. >Lower front guards, replaceable or repairable. Lower rear guards, >replacement weld on "rust" panels now available. >Check the sills, the base of the B pillar, and lower door skins. >Check closely around the join between the rear quarters and the inner guards >above the rear wheels, water can get through the back of vent in the rear C >pillar and runs down into the join. Open the rear door and check just >inside the striker plate where the panel joins the inner guard. Look >closely where the roof rain gutters join the turret (roof). Check under the >front floor mat for rusty floor caused by a leaking windscreen or heater >tap/core. >Under the spare wheel, caused by a leaking boot. Under the boot seal rubber >and where the tops of the rear guards join the boot channel. Look into the >plenum chamber and check its not clogged with leaves and that water flows >easily through through the drains from the plenum into the front inner >guards. > >Dont be freaked by all this, these are 30 year old cars after all. If you >pay more you generally get what you pay for, but still check thoroughly. > >You should also look for straight panels underneath, and particularly note >the join between the sill and the floor pan, excessive damage probably >indicates off road use (rallied) or using the wrong place to jack the body >up. > >For preference look for a car that has an older paint job where any rust is >likely to be showing through, as fresh paint can cover a lot of grief, >although not always. > >Good luck and be persistent, Good 1600's dont come up every week, but they >do come up. Who bought the '69 model in Bairnsdale about three weeks ago? >1 owner genuine 42000 miles @ $2800, a steal! > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Leigh Waller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Monday, 7 May 2001 21:34 PM >Subject: purchasing > > >> Hi, I am currently looking to purchase a 1600 for my first car. I was >> wondering if anyone could give me information such as where they usually >> rust, and what other problems would i have to look out for. >> >> i would be gratefull for any help. >> _________________________________________________________________ >> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com >> > _____________________________________________________________ Get Your free Ozdat Email Account ---> http://www.ozdat.com --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
