No its 32 mm^2, area, thats the way electrical cable is rated, for current
flow. If you solder the joints, its a better quality job, less losses.....
I have dont the conversion, inside the car, using propper rubber grommets
where the cable goes through the firewall, just above the starter.
Injection is coming along well, still making the new manifold.
I have spare teriminal for the cable if you want them, the solder type.
Justin Friedrichs <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Thommo,
So you used 36mm diameter cable, sounds fat.
Can't you just get connections that you can screw up to the cable so
you don't have to solder?
Are you going to run the cable inside the car, . Most marine shops
should have that cable Huh?
Hows your datto going, injected yet.
Thanks
Justin
> Justin,
> i used the propper wire (thick and flexible)32 or 36 mm^2, around $6-10
> per
> metre, I used 4.5m, with enough left over for a nice earth lead in the
> boot
> (from Down South Marine in Lonsdale). I also purchased red and black heat
> shrink tubing and the mounting cable ends from an electrical wholesaler -
> i
> actually have some spare. They were fairly expensive though. the cable is
> balck, so red heat shrink looks good at the ends of the +. I used an oxy
> welder to heat the cable/connection fitting, and then applied solder. An
> ordinary soldering iron would not work due to the thickness of the cable.
> Regards,
> Thommo
>
> "C Coffey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hey Justin, just as a thought about cable size, When I put the battery in
> my
> first racecar I used welder earth cable, off a 350amp+ machine, I bought
> it
> from a welding supply type store, Auto sparky's wanted too much money for
> the cable, from memory it was about 10mm wire, all up o/d about 12-15mm
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 12:49 AM
> Subject: Re: BATTERY IN BOOT
>
>
> > Your idea's pretty right for the cable run. We put one in the same,
> with
> a
> > diversion across to a battery kill switch under the front seat. You can
> > actually put it into the sill and bring it out in front of the front
> door
> > near the bonnet cable release. In the sill it can't get damaged and
> cause
> a
> > fire. The cable has to go through the firewall somewhere near where you
> > suggest, be very careful to properly insulate it from possible
> insulation
> > cuts.
> > We used the hole left by the column auto gear shift as it is very close
> to
> > the starter motor- but you may not have an ex auto to use this hole. It
> may
> > be worth looking at drilling through the firewall just above the
> steering
> > column.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Justin Friedrichs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Thursday, 31 May 2001 8:56 AM
> > Subject: BATTERY IN BOOT
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > HI LISTERS,
> > > I'm about to put a battery in the boot, does anyone know the min
> > > thickness for the cable to minimise voltage drop.
> > > Also how long will it need to be?
> > > Where abouts in the firewall does the cable go? Maybe through that
> > > loom hole near the accelerator rod?
> > > I was thinking of putting the cable under the back seat, then right
> > > behind the drivers seat and follow the cable as far right as possible
> > > through the firewall. Sound OK?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Fellas
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
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