Mark, robert whoever,
I use 3" from the turbo back on my L20 Turbo back.I use mild steel and do
the lot myself which saves a bit of money if you have a mig.I cut the dump
off flush with the swing valve and grind out the guts to accept the 3" bend
that i squash a bit to get an oval shape which i braze to the swingvalve
plate(i use expensive brazing rod) i have also used tig for this weld
successfully.I then follow the path of a standard exhaust using a
combination of bends and straight sections.I use 3 by 180 deg bends ($25
each) a 3m length of straight ($50),a dynomax magnum glasspack 3" in the
middle of the car ($65), and a dynomax race magnum ($95) at the end which
has 3" nipples on the ends but is actually 4" inside so i cut off one end
and weld a 4" tip.I use a solid mount at the gearbox followed by a flange
then a rubber support about halfway to the diff which is a bent/shaped piece
of 6mm rod welded to the centre muffler and supported by rubbers either side
of the trans tunnel.I also used the standard rubber at the diff hole
attached to a u clamp which is also use for the slip joint.Then thru the 4"
hole in the crossmember.I use the standard rubbers on the rear muffler as i
just cut the mounts of the old muffler and weld them to the new.You need to
be carefull all the way thru to maintain ground clearance and getting around
the handbrake cable can be a bit tricky.The whole system costs under $300
and sounds great.Mine just burbles away at idle and roars at full noise with
no bark.The dynomax mufflers are good quality and use heavy gauge steel that
is fully welded and alluminised.
Andrew Smith
robert hall wrote:
> hi, any ideas on a good exhaust for my 1600? i have a t3 turbo L20B/Z18
> head. i was told to run a stainless steel dump pipe, how long should
> this actually be? and what sort of muffler, where should it be placed
> etc.......
>
> mark .k.
>
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