Terry,

Thanks for that.  I have got the DBA cross drilled and slotted rotors to go on with a 
set of Bendix Metal King pads.  It is for the EVO 1.5 or WRC 610 (180BSSS).  I haven't 
actually changed the rotors before, just the struts as a complete unit.

Cheers

--- "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>That's the way it's done if you have a hub with the rotor that's not
>detachable (Bluebird 910) or you are getting the hub as well on the
>detachable type (Nissan use both types). If you buy new DBA rotors you only
>get the disc for the detachable rotor type (180B, 200B, 240K etc) and you
>keep your hubs. Getting the disc to split off the hub can be a bit trying,
>other than that it's just a messy job. Use fresh grease (HTB) type and check
>the condition of the bearings and split pins etc.
>
>regards
>Terry
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Michael
>Foreshew
>Sent: Tuesday, 2 October 2001 8:37 AM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Brake Rotor Change
>
>
>Morning esteemed colleagues,
>
>I have to replace the brake rotors on the front of the rally car.  I got a
>stone caught between the pad and rotor face and it has gouged into the disk.
>
>I have organised replacement parts but my question is how difficult is it to
>change the rotors?  Based on appearance, it would appear to be a process of
>removing the wheel (well duh!), brake caliper and then removing the rotor
>from the strut.  Is there anything I have missed? Comments/hints would be
>appreciated.
>
>Cheers
>
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