Cam,
 
That's it in one.
 
Mark,
If you look closely at those little tubes that have a letter stamped on them eg A, B, or C and may be higher but I don't recall seeing higher than C. You can actually have a different stamp on the left to the right so be very careful and note which is where when you pull them apart. We used to permanently mark the axle flange so we never got the spacers mixed up and spares were identifiable for later on as the tubes actually belong to the axle and not the housing.
 
The bearings press onto the axle just like a live axle - easy stuff with a press, nigh impossible without. Make sure the housing is absolutely as clean as a whistle and then drift the axle into place until you can fit the half shaft flange and the lock nut that gets torqued to 240 ft/lbs (33 kg/mtr).
 
regards
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of CM510
Sent: Tuesday, 4 June 2002 10:45 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Wheel bearings.

Mate, you might be under-rating that 'bit of tube' , I think they are graded in thousands of an inch to get correct bearing crush when you tighten that stub axle.  :)
 
No doubt TR or Feral Errol will know more.
 
Cheers,
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 10:38
Subject: Wheel bearings.

Hey guys,
 
Anyone know the best way to get new rear wheels bearings in without damaging them?
 
Also, should there be anything between the wheel bearings? Mine has a piece of tube between them, but I can't see what the purpose of it is.
 
Mark.
 

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