Thank you Terry for the detailed info. As two of the gauges need 
power as well as lighting I was looking for two different sources of 
power - just to save having the gauge lighting on all the time, 
though as suggested lighting for low-mounts mightn't be a bad idea.

oh, you may recall my oil sender woes...got the factory adaptor out 
of the block okay, (electric sender fouled the engine mount so I 
stayed with mechanical), a pirtek adaptor for the mechanical gauge 
eliminated having threads into threads etc and even came with brass 
fitting and nut for the oil tube so was neater than the adaptors with 
the gauge - all for $2.20 and good advice on how to properly tighten 
the fittings without crushing the plastic pipes to boot!

My new purchase (FJ'ed 1600) has been a bit of saga:

(It stranded me at Maraulen when I drove it down from Sydney, and 
arrived in Canberra on a trailer @ 04:00!)

This W/end Went to Fyshwick for wheel alignment (felt a spongey 
clutch before departing Tugg. but was short on time) got to Fyshwick -
 no clutch aaargh! - quick walk to Motor spares for some fluid, gee 
the FJ20 manifold does a good job of hiding the clutch 
resevoir...back for some funnels, and dexterous fingers to remove the 
cap. Bad news she wont hold any alignment, need ball joint and also 
fix a clunk in the shock. After this I need a new or rebuilt 
alternator as it's output is only 12V so not enough to charge. Is 
60AMP big enough for FJ20ET, electric fuel pump + 100W inner sealed 
beams + normal CD head unit?

Add to this some panel damage to be fixed, reseal leaking 3 piece 
simmons, boot catch so I piss the cable off tying the boot down 
(which gets accessed regularly to jump start or charge the dead 
battery!) ahhh those uni days on running around in a 1600 are coming 
back way to me, but It was never this frustrating!

But each of the three drives in my FJ20 turboed 1600 have me whooping 
with joy - just friggin amazing, but a little scary until I get the 
front end sorted (tram-tracking all over the place). Two thoughts 1. 
This damn thing is so fast 2. I'm going to kill myself ;-)

Mark.

> Mark,
> 
> Most 1600 looms have a 3 pin plug that's for the clock in the GL 
and it's
> not usually on wiring diagrams. (The Japanese loom for clock eg 
Wagon is
> different as it uses 2 plugs, 1 for battery power and earth and 
another for
> it's lighting (green/black and another black wire from memory as 
it's
> lighting is external). The GL clock plug has battery (red/blue), 
light
> (green/white?) and earth (black) wires and is very handy for 
lighting
> additional gauges. What I usually do for additional lighting is cut 
the plug
> off and run these wires into a Clipsal block connector and then off 
the
> other side of the Clipsal block connector to gauges or whatever. 
Another way
> is to solder in a male connector onto the light circuit on the PCB 
and then
> run a wire to a block connector. Some Datsun dashes eg 180B are 
done like
> this ex-factory but I've never seen a 1600 dash with an auxiliary 
lighting
> connector.
> 
> regards
> Terry
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Mark
> Sent: Monday, 8 July 2002 12:34 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: wiring in gauges
> 
> 
> I'd been eyeing off a nice white-face 3 3/4" Autometer tacho the 
last
> few visits to the auto shop and convinced myself I really did need 
to
> know what revs were going on so brought it home on Sat. Did some 
dicky
> wiring just to test it out - now that I've pulled the dash out I 
see I'd
> better fix the spaghetti wiring for instrument lights for the other
> after market guages (temp, oil, and vac/boost gauges). I haven't 
removed
> the cluster yet, but I imagine an easy fix for lighting would be to 
just
> solder a wire onto a PCB trace leading to a factory dash light?
> I have one wire for switched source of power - what's the neatest
> connector/junction to use to take this to four difference points - 
under
> the electrical tape i imagine they're just bare wires wound 
together and
> all taped up ATM so this is not ideal.
> 
> mark.
> 
> 
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