nahh thats pretty standard with a cold engine, also carbs maybe be outta tune, that 
definitly doesnt help.

james

--- "james wade" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Just with L series engines.
>
>My engine tends to be stupid when cold... im guessing this is common. I
>try to warm it up whenever possible for 5 mins or so but lately i havent
>been driving much and havent been ablet to compare it to when driving
>when warm, but when i push on the gas after stopping it doesnt
>accellerate for the first little bit (it sorta revs (tiny revs im
>guessing maybe 500RPM - not maxing out) and moves a little but no
>relative power) then kicks in to normal revs. Im guessing this is due to
>the cold as it has never done this that i can remember when warm. I'll
>take her for a drive early next week, but could this be a problem? I
>dont know how it could have developed - im not harsh on the transmission
>(im a very sensi driver as at the moment there are a few things which
>could possibly be defected and i do my best not to attract attention) or
>engine... actually the car in general. Oh btw its a l16.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>Wrom: XFGGMEPYOQKEDOTWFAOBUZXUWLSZLKBRNVWW
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Terry Rudd
>Sent: Friday, 12 July 2002 10:58 PM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: RE: water probs
>
>
>James,
>
>The standard thermostat is 82C or 180F and that indicates just to the
>left of the E on the late model dash. Some gauges have a line there and
>some don't. On an early model dash I just forget where normal is, just
>to the left of vertical at an educated guess but I'm just not sure on
>that one, it's a long time since I was in a flip flopper. It's quite
>normal for the Temp gauge to move around about a 1/8" or so in either
>direction, especially if you have thermo fans etc. The voltage regulator
>in the 1600 dash isn't too flash either as it allows voltage
>fluctuations, turning lights on/off, heater on/off etc, but basically
>somewhere around the E is close enough. An L engine will run right up to
>P without any dramas, - we used to use Ford 192F thermostats in the
>rally engines all day with triple core radiators and the piddliest fan
>we could find and never had any dramas with them but these engines
>weren't idling in stop/start city traffic. We also found the L18 was the
>coolest running block of the L engines as they had a lot more water
>capacity than the L16, but a worked L20B also tends to strain the
>average 1600 cooling system a bit. Just don't run it cold, L engines are
>very grumpy when cold.
>
>regards
>Terry
>
>-----Original Message-----
>Wrom: CUFPEGAUTFJMVRESKPNKMBIPBARHDMNNSKVF
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of James Morrison
>Sent: Friday, 12 July 2002 10:57 PM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: RE: water probs
>
>
>terry,
>      Okay, i'll run it tomorrow and once it gets to temp i'll take cap
>off and watch for bubbles, just out of curiosity whats the best standard
>running temp to have? and what do L20's and L18's run at (or should run
>at i should
>say?)
>
>Cheers
>James
>
>--- "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>James,
>>
>>Doesn't sound too good does it. One thing you shouldn't do is add water
>
>>to
>a
>>hot engine when it's not running, or at least if you do then don't 
>>start
>the
>>engine for a good 10 to 15 minutes or so. Rapid changes in temperature
>reeks
>>havoc on metal components and head gaskets etc. It's quite normal for 
>>the water in a cooling system to expand a bit and spill over the 
>>radiator
>during
>>warm up, especially if the thermostat is in good order. Once the 
>>thermostat has opened a couple of times everything settles down. It's 
>>at normal operating temperature that if bubbles in the radiator are 
>>expelled then
>it's
>>a gorna.
>>
>>regards
>>Terry
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>Wrom: VZCMHVIBGDADRZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLMHAALPTC
>>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of James 
>>Morrison
>>Sent: Friday, 12 July 2002 10:01 PM
>>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>Subject: RE: water probs
>>
>>
>>terry, thanks. One thing i did notice was when i turned it off and 
>>filled
>up
>>the radiator, it would rise out over the top (this was without the cap 
>>on) and about 30 seconds later a big bubble would come up and the water
>
>>level would go below the cap (where its supposed to) and it repeated 
>>itself 3 or
>4
>>times. Also when i got home and switched off the car there was a 
>>bubbleing and draining sound coming from the engine bay, thats when i 
>>knew it was in trouble :) ahhh i hate being the bearer of bad news!!!
>>
>>James
>>
>>
>>
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