James,
You don`t have to use LRP. You can use a premium ULP, you just
need to add a small amout of Upper Cylinder Lubricant when you fill up.
Kris.
----- Original Message -----
From: "james wade" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2002 9:49 AM
Subject: RE: water probs
> i take it you mean cover up the air intakes and then rev hard? im
> running a l16 (1970) so im stuck with LRP...
>
> -james
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Terry Rudd
> Sent: Saturday, 13 July 2002 1:38 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: water probs
>
>
> James,
>
> A 32/36 is not usually affected by swirling if the bypass hoses are
> fitted i.e. I've run them in Canberra and you don't need hot air intakes
> with them. They are however prone to blocking the air bleeds especially
> in dusty climates if the air cleaner element is not cleaned/replaced at
> the recommended intervals. To clear the bleeds on the car you just shove
> your hand over the venturis with the engine running at around 2K rpm and
> at the same time open the throttle wide. The suck of the engine will
> clear the bleeds and usually stall the engine in the process due to
> flooding. Sometimes you need to repeat the process the few times.
>
> A L engine that has steel valve seats is quite OK to run on unleaded
> fuel. That covers most L's made after ~74 and some ppl say the Aussie
> Series 2 Bluebird engine is not suitable but we've been told otherwise
> as well. Depending on compression ratio you'll need 96 or 98 Octane but
> if it doesn't detonate on LRP and Premium ULP will be OK. Now, the
> controversial bit as it's my personal opinion based upon the
> characteristics of my engine with a CR of over 10.5:1 - my preferences
> are in this order : Mobil Synergy, Shell Optimax, BP Ultimate and then
> (PULP's) - Ampol/Caltex Vortex and then any of the others and then if
> I'm really stuck in the bush a splash and go of LRP to get me to the
> next major centre.
>
> regards
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of james wade
> Sent: Friday, 12 July 2002 9:43 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: water probs
>
>
> I have a 32/36 downdraught webber. Yes, i'm using LRP - should i use
> regular unleaded or premium? Wont that muddle up the engine?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Terry Rudd
> Sent: Friday, 12 July 2002 11:43 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: water probs
>
>
> James,
>
> What sort of carbie have you got - it sounds to me like it's got a flat
> spot or maybe blocked air bleeds. Another thing that Hitachi downdrafts
> don't like is the manifold bypass hoses blocked off. The warmth in the
> manifold from the water circulating in winter stops the fuel/air mixture
> from separating back to liquid droplets (there's a name for this that
> I've
> forgotten) but basically when the mixture turns the corner is swirls if
> the air temp is very cold. You may have seen hot air intakes on the
> likes of Stanza and 200B/Bluebird that suck warm air from the exhaust
> manifold. Some L engines were very prone to this condition when driven
> in very cold climates, these warm air intake systems are a nuisance in
> summer though.
>
> Another thought, what fuel are you using? as LRP winter formula is total
> crap and I wouldn't put it in a lawn mower unless I was desperate.
>
> regards
> terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of james wade
> Sent: Thursday, 11 July 2002 11:43 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: water probs
>
>
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