What kind of grinder do you use, air or electric?
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm
This tutorial says not to use Dremels and the like with 1/8" chucks -
but they dont give any reason why. Funnily enough thier product comes
in 1/4" size only, so I have always wondered if there is any real
reason they say that apart from the fact that it would maybe rob them
of some sales.
Thursday, October 31, 2002, 12:27:26 AM, you wrote:
mk> hi, its really not that hard , i`ve done more heads than i care to remember.
mk> i wouldnt bother with polishing, just leave it a smooth satin type finish,
mk> they say if you polish up the combustion chamber it wont collect carbon as much.
mk> you can get a special carbide cutter for alloy, and another cutter for non alloy.
mk> the alloy cutter i got really rips into the aliminium.
mk> you can use the other sort , but most of the time they block up alot quicker than
the cutters specifically for alloy.
mk> get carbide cutters, those stone type cutters are useless in alloy.
mk> the carbide ones vary from about $25 to 100 dollars or so.
mk> they usually have a shaft on them about 1 1/2 inches long, but i have got one
with a 4 inch long shaft for getting into places the shorter ones wont.
mk> mark k
mk> ----- Original Message -----
mk> From: Richard Webb
mk> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
mk> Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2002 5:44 PM
mk> Subject: Re: l20 vs l18
mk> what about porting/polishing the standard l20 head? Im getting a compressor soon
and after seeing an article somewhere I am very tempted to get a die-grinder and try
do some head work. How hard
mk> is it? Is it worth bothering? And does it matter what condition the head is in to
start with?
mk> ----- Original Message -----
mk> From: Richard Clough
mk> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
mk> Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 3:17 AM
mk> Subject: Re: l20 vs l18
mk> The L18 has a better stock compression ratio than an L20 (8.5 to 7.8). With a
bit of porting on an A87 head, and a good cam, you should be able to get your 140HP
using twin SU's on the L18.
mk> The stock L18SSS produced 115 HP with a mild cam and 44mm inlet valves and 9.5 to1
compression, using flat top pistons).
mk> The L20 needs to have the pistons replaced with flat tops or only slightly
dished, to get the compression ratio up. If you do this, then you can get more HP
fairly easily from the L20 with
mk> an A 87 head. The original L20 has the same cam profile as an L18SSS, to combat
the power losses of all the antipollution gear.
mk> ----- Original Message -----
mk> From: james wade
mk> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
mk> Sent: Wednesday, 30 October 2002 19:10 PM
mk> Subject: l20 vs l18
mk> Howdy Guys.
mk> I am looking into converting my l16 powered 1600 to a bigger l series
engine. I had my sights set on getting a l20B engine and getting it worked, but a mate
is selling his car as a wreck
mk> with a l18 and 5spd stanza for 300-400 bucks to me. I can have the car for 200
without the box and engine. I would rather get the box with the car so im leaning
towards the buying it.
mk> Pretty much im just wondering if the l18 has as much potential. I was
planning on putting a crow cam and pushing the timing back a bit to get the revs up in
the l20 and also putting a a87
mk> head on. twin sus aswell. I have been told this can put out some alright power for
a street car, and I plugged the values into the computer and got 145 hp. I know it
wouldn't get this high as it
mk> is a 20 odd year old engine but still, could I get the l18 going this hard for a
similar cost?
mk> Sorry bout the rambling.
mk> -James
mk> James Wade / underground electronic magazine
mk> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
mk> www.ugzine.com
mk> PO BOX 140
mk> Kensington Park, SA 5068
mk> t:+61 8 8262 2850
mk> f:+61 8 8219 1070
mk> m:+61 (0)421 846 630
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Best regards,
Bob mailto:rcs07@;uow.edu.au
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