-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:membersozdat_owner@;datascribe.com.au]On Behalf Of James Morrison
Sent: Monday, 11 November 2002 5:26 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Oil


hey guys, my L18 is low on oil and instead of gettin my usual oil i was
wondering:

1. Is it true if you have rings on the way out thicker oil will smoke a bit
less?
For a while a thicker oil will burn less, then as it goes off you'll lose
relatively a lot in very short time. A lot of people including local garages
tend to put the wrong grade of oil in a L series engine most of the time
these days anyway, they aren't made for the really thin multivalve oils -
good old GTX is back and most L engines will run real well on it - most oil
that you'll burn on a half decent L engine will go down the valve guides,
the tolerances are far greater than in a modern multi-valve engine. If
you've got damaged rings and or bore then the grade of oil doesn't really
matter all that much. A lot of ppl swear by a brand and grade of oil, take
one of my favourite oils, Valvoline XLD for an example - great oil in the
80's, far superior for L engines than GTX2 with its friction modifiers etc,
Valvoline goes to a SF/SH rating which suites multi-valve engines, turns
into crap for L engines overnight, so I'm back to GTX2 or Pennzoil or
Penrite. GTX comes back on market in it's original SE rating, L engines
happy again and running the full distance between changes.

2. Whats the thickest oil i could run?
Good question, something like a 10w30 multigrade that's suitable for a
Holden grey, or early British engine - not recommended for a L engine as the
piston feet per minute (this has another name that I forget) is too great
and it will break down over 4K rpm especially in a L18.

3. What are the downfalls of running thicker oil (ie. performance wise etc)
Not a lot, you may lose a HP or two, but the problem is the same as in Q2


Also i have a sticking brake piston which is causing the caliper to flap
around and make a shitty noise over bumps, whats the best solution for
this?? new caliper? hammer out piston and grease it up?
That's more likely to be a warped rotor are a slide problem eg the
anti-rattle spring plate has gone awol - a sticking piston usually sticks
on, not off. Try a second hand calliper for sure to see what happens.

Thanks for ya help guys
Your welcome.

regards
Terry

James



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