James,
 
Easy job, requires some basic tools and know how - adjusting the preload on the wheel bearings is the hardest part.
 
Remove wheel, undo calliper retaining bolts x 2 (17mm) and secure calliper assembly so it doesn't drop and put weight on the flexi hydraulic line.
Check condition of pads - replace if required.
Remove the hub dust cap, remove cotter pin and cage, undo bearing retaining nut from stub axle, remove thrust washer and outer wheel bearing, remove hub.
 
Re-fitting is the reverse.
 
Things to note.
 - I suggest that you check condition of the wheel bearings and hub grease seal and if possible keep the bearings that go with the replacement hubs, repack them with HTB grease. Adjust bearings, fit new cotter pins if they're past their use by date, dust cap, callipers.
Bleed brakes if they haven't been done for a while, fit wheel etc by both sides and you're on the road again.
Take it easy on the brakes for a while if you use your old pads on the replacement rotors as they will need to bed in etc.
The machining and wear marks will never match but the pads will bed in within a few days.
 
regards
Terry

 -----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of james wade
Sent: Tuesday, 19 November 2002 8:02 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: changing discs

Guys

 

I am running stocky struts on my 16 (yeah I know theyre crap�. Saving for some good ones) and I just grabbed my mates old struts. I need to change the discs on mine, what do I need to take off, and what do I need to watch out for? Also If I take the brake line off, will anything bleed out� or will it only bleed if you muck around with the pedal.

 

Cheers.

 

-James

 

James Wade / underground electronic magazine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.ugzine.com
PO BOX 140
Kensington Park, SA 5068
t:+61 8 8262 2850
f:+61 8 8219 1070
m:+61 (0)421 846 630

 


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