Hey guys, another thing went wrong with my bloody datsun (hurts to say it but the thing keeps fucking up).
I was driving along one day and then smoke started pouring out of the bonnet (peak hour traffic) so i whip into a side street, check for flames and open the bonnet up, my bloody wiring is red hot and melting itself :( ... so i grab an old tshirt from the back of the car and smother it all and minimized the damage. It still drove altho the horn had to be disconnected because it was permanantly on. All lights etc work, nothing doesnt, well now the whole car doesnt work!!! I can start when i jump it off another car and it'll run alright and everthing will work, but then i turn it off and try again NOTHING not even a click, but when it is running the temp and fuel gauges dont register. Could i have cooked the battery and alternator?? Im going to get it re-wired (engine bay only..fucken $$$$$ tho) but in the meantime i need it to get to work and back. Will a new battery be a waste of money (i dont have enuff to waste thats why im asking b4 i buy it). And in ending this sad email i must make it sadder, this last problem is the last straw im goin to be purchasing a 91 180sx mid next year (i hope), i will hopefully be keeping the datto but honestly it wont be missed if i do get rid of it....to much work and to much money, not reliable enuff aswell. Thanks for ya help guys, James (if anyone in the Bentleigh (melbourne)area wants to earn some cash re-wiring a datto engine bay let me know) _____________________________________________________________ Get Your free Ozdat Email Account ---> http://www.ozdat.com _____________________________________________________________ Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get [EMAIL PROTECTED] w/No Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
--- Begin Message --------Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of James Morrison Sent: Monday, 11 November 2002 5:26 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Oil hey guys, my L18 is low on oil and instead of gettin my usual oil i was wondering: 1. Is it true if you have rings on the way out thicker oil will smoke a bit less? For a while a thicker oil will burn less, then as it goes off you'll lose relatively a lot in very short time. A lot of people including local garages tend to put the wrong grade of oil in a L series engine most of the time these days anyway, they aren't made for the really thin multivalve oils - good old GTX is back and most L engines will run real well on it - most oil that you'll burn on a half decent L engine will go down the valve guides, the tolerances are far greater than in a modern multi-valve engine. If you've got damaged rings and or bore then the grade of oil doesn't really matter all that much. A lot of ppl swear by a brand and grade of oil, take one of my favourite oils, Valvoline XLD for an example - great oil in the 80's, far superior for L engines than GTX2 with its friction modifiers etc, Valvoline goes to a SF/SH rating which suites multi-valve engines, turns into crap for L engines overnight, so I'm back to GTX2 or Pennzoil or Penrite. GTX comes back on market in it's original SE rating, L engines happy again and running the full distance between changes. 2. Whats the thickest oil i could run? Good question, something like a 10w30 multigrade that's suitable for a Holden grey, or early British engine - not recommended for a L engine as the piston feet per minute (this has another name that I forget) is too great and it will break down over 4K rpm especially in a L18. 3. What are the downfalls of running thicker oil (ie. performance wise etc) Not a lot, you may lose a HP or two, but the problem is the same as in Q2 Also i have a sticking brake piston which is causing the caliper to flap around and make a shitty noise over bumps, whats the best solution for this?? new caliper? hammer out piston and grease it up? That's more likely to be a warped rotor are a slide problem eg the anti-rattle spring plate has gone awol - a sticking piston usually sticks on, not off. Try a second hand calliper for sure to see what happens. Thanks for ya help guys Your welcome. regards Terry James _____________________________________________________________ Get Your free Ozdat Email Account ---> http://www.ozdat.com _____________________________________________________________ Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get [EMAIL PROTECTED] w/No Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag<<attachment: winmail.dat>>
--- End Message ---
