|
Iggy,
Foxy's
page is absolutely spot on from what I know - so something is not quite right if
you've followed that. we've had a few problems with 1600 ignition switches with
some conversions (71/72 models mainly), also a few sensors particularly the one
on the thermostat housing, the TPS and the connectors on the ECU itself. I've
pasted in some notes on the ignition switch problem, it may be similar to the
what you have - the symptoms are that the engine will fire and then die
refer point 3 below.
regards
Terry
"
The bit of info that might interest
you is to do with apparent cold start probs with the FJ. I wired my ECU in
with several relays switched via the various power lines from the ign
switch. Eg. ECU and injectors have separate
relays/fuses. Starter circuit comes off the 'start' for the starter
motor etc. ECU and injectors relay is switched by the 'run' position on
the ign switch. All power goes to the relays from the battery via a
fusable link.
The problem I was having was when the
motor was cold, it would fire and run for a couple of seconds, then die.
This would happen two or three times, sometimes more, on a cold morning before
it would run properly. I found several problems :-
1. coolant temperature sensor
had shoddy connections. Made a big difference to idle speed.
2. Throttle position switch was
intermittent. Sometimes it would indicate closed when the throttle
was closed, and other times not. Opening the switch and adjusting the
contacts fixed that. Driveablility was poor, as well as
starting.
3. This was the
tricky one to find. As you know, the 'run' circuit supplies power during
running and starting of the motor. 'Start' only supplies power when
starting. After hunting, I found that when turning the ignition switch between
'run' and 'start', there was a short, but momentary point between the
two positions where the 'run' circuit has no continuity. This was
confirmed when switching between run and start, the power relays for the ecu
would click off for a split second. So what I did was put a
2200mfd 25volt capacitor across the coil of the ECU relay, and an
isolating diode in line with it. In effect, the capacitor is smoothing
the power supply to the relay in
between the brief interuption caused by the switch
contacts. The relay thus does not turn off, continuing to supply
power to the ECU during the whole start process, instead of a flickering on-off
unstable power supply. I now have a motor that starts first time, every
time, without missing a beat, that idles about 1200 until warm, then 700-750
rpms at normal temps with a stock ECU.
"
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- FJ20T ECU D-Frag Solutions
- RE: FJ20T ECU Terry Rudd
- Re: FJ20T ECU D-Frag Solutions
- Re: FJ20T ECU Terry Rudd
- Re: FJ20T ECU D-Frag Solutions
