You can buy them thru most engine reco places for around $7 each.You should have new larger steel valve seats fitted although i think you can get away without the larger seats but ive always fitted the larger ones.The head should be ported to suit the larger valves and for a first timer i would suggest borrowing a head off the later L20's with the larger ports and copying the ports in that or better still find an old corroded datrally or similar head and copying the ports in that.You'll need a compressor,die grinder,an elcheapo high speed steel burr or an expensive tungsten burr and a flap wheel to finish off with.No need for polishing as a course flap wheel finish is prefered to help keep the fuel and air mixed.Its best to remove the valve guides before porting.The main areas you'll be concentrating on is the bowl area with a gentle taper out to the valve seat,the short radius needs to be a radius and not a square edge like standard,the ports should be about the same size as the manifold(i asume your using a weber/webers).Ports are slightly offset from the valve when you look into them and this is called bias which should be retained for swirling into the chamber.You can also do some touching up in the chamber by deshrouding around the valve.You can also do a bit of this into the bores after you mark the block with the head you need to be carefull not to go down to far into the ring area.The valves should be 3 angle ground along with the valve seats.It will still be everyday drivable just depends on how much wilder a cam you run as this effects the vacum and requires a faster idle.

Richard Webb wrote:

Can anyone tell me whats required to put 280zx valves in a A87 head? Can you still buy them new from somewhere? Do you guys think its worth polishing my head before I put it on my engine. Does it make it undrivable everyday... I've heard that by polishing it it means that the engine needs to idle higher, is this correct? Any help and suggestions would be appreciated, Im a newbie to head work.


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