KOOL info Rob,

i have noticed that if i drive the car without the air cleaner (it has a new
one on it at the moment, yes i know it's naughty to drive without one) that
it runs a lot richer & blows black fuel smoke. so more air must mean more
fuel ! I do have one of those std air cleaner covers but at present i have
an air cleaner (kinda oval) shaped alloy cover that exposes all sides of the
air cleaner to the air.  Its funny I am not using the cover but i dont want
to cut holes in it which is stupid cause i could roll the car anytime & F#$K
the whole thing any way!

has anyone had problems with pressurising su carbies with forced air ?

c ya Jeff



Do a search on ZCar.com...

and check this one out, if it's for Zs but if you can
get an airbox then I don't see why it wouldn't work.

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/air.html


--- Rob P <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Assuming you don't have a stock SSS type air filter
> box, make a box out of
> aluminium as suggested using the mounting holes in
> the carbies as attachment
> points.
> Lightweight, doesn't need to be strong. 2 ways I've
> seen to do it;
>
> 1. Make a box around the inlets, with a lid on top
> and an open hole towards
> the front of the car.
> The box can be lengthened (or a tube attached ) to
> make this opening about
> 120 - 150mm from the radiator support panel, aimed
> at the cutout opening in
> that panel. The standard radiator bracket takes up
> 95mm of this clearance so
> I have allowed 25 - 55mm of clearance so that engine
> movements are absorbed
> by a flexible rubber tube.This is mounted over the
> opening on the radiator
> support panel and sleeved over the cold air box to
> ensure that cold air is
> always drawn from outside the engine bay, even when
> the car is stopped.
> A lid is for access to air filters, trumpets and
> mounting bolts and is
> usually removed by catches or clips that are of a
> rattle-free design. The
> lid must be airtight, usually accomplished by using
> some soft foam or rubber
> strip seal.
>
> 2. Same as above except no lid. The box is left open
> on the top, but the top
> edge is encircled by a very high and thick soft seal
> of rubber or foam
> rubber. The bonnet becomes the lid when closed. The
> tricky bit is getting
> the top edge of the cold air box shaped just right,
> and the seal working
> correctly against the bonnet. This way you could
> also draw air through an
> aerodynamic scoop/inlet on the bonnet (for that
> customised ram-flow look),
> but remember to put a small drainage hole in the
> bottom of the cold air box
> for rain. Bonnet inlet means you don't need the
> forward facing inlet going
> through the radiator support panel.
>
> This is just what I've seen, not done myself so plan
> it all very carefully.
> There may be other ways.
>
> Cheers,
> Rob P
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Oldham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 1:55 PM
> Subject: RE: cold air intake
>
>
> > no response..................... ?
> >
> >
> > Hey,
> >
> > has anyone made up or bought a cold air intake for
> their Datto's ?
> > I have twin su's on my 1600 & was thinking about
> bringing cold air
> > in from the front of the car instead of sucking
> the hot air from the
> engine
> > bay
> >
> >
> > cheers Jeff
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
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