Greg, go get yourself a book called "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell.
That'll help you with your dramas.

Washering the actuator does bugger all to modify the amount of boost you
make, all it does it pull the wastegate flap shut tighter, which is only
useful if you are making "SO MUCH" boost that it blows the wastegate flap
open. Not likely in your scenario.

Probable causes of your "overboosting" could be things like the diaphragm in
your wastegate actuator is leaking, or somehow got moist, oily or whatever
and split. You will never know without either destroying it or replacing it,
so try this first:
Take the tube that goes to the wastegate actuator, and join it up directly
to the source of the signal (The compressor outlet, manifold, or intercooler
piping). This will limit your boost to around 6-7 psi. If this brings boost
down to 6-7psi then your wastegate is OK. If not then your wastegate is
probably stuffed.

Next thing, boost control gizmos literally SUCK. They are unreliable things
and I hate them.
Take a look at this diagram: http://www.mlmillionaire.com/WG.pdf
That is how most factory boost is set up. All you need is some brass or
aluminium rod 1/4", some 1/4" hose, a standard cheapy drill set, hacksaw and
a 1/4" Tee piece.
You can make up this boost control system for about 5 bucks worth of bits if
your willing to go out and find them & make it up.

I only have experience with fuel injected turbo setups, but from what I
understand of "Blow Thru" turbo setups they are a bitch to tune and usually
never right, they cough and splutter and sometimes they work.
Maybe invest in some fuel injection gear before you go blowing your money on
dyno tuners...

Hope this helps...


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Greg Britton
Sent: Monday, 3 November 2003 8:22 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Turbo dramas


Hi guys

My name is Greg and ive just moved to melbourne from Qld.  About a week b4 i
came down i dropped an Turboed L16 (with 1800 internals) into my 1600.  Its
a draw through turbo using a CD175 (big SU looken) carby.  Its set up to
deal with 13.5PSI using the boost to retard timing through a fabricated
vaccum advance thingy.

At the moment it runs like trash.  It wont idle and when i come up on boost
it starts to ping so i have to back off.  Its also over boosting to 15PSI.
Its a brand new engine too so im freaking about how instantaineous the
"leaning out leading to engine detination" thing happens.  Its got
adjustment on the boost retarder on the dizzy but i dont want to run boost
that high anyway.  Its a Turbo off an FJ20 apparently and the waste gate
actuator is mounted on the back of the intake side of the turbo.  If i were
to shim the actuator arm back further with washers would that succesfuly
lower my boost or would it change also where the boost comes in coz it would
be opening the waist gate earlier or even strait away and needing more
engine revs to bring it up on boost?

Have i confused you yet?  Sorry im not good at explaining it and im only
really new to the world of Turbos so all of my knowledge is only a few weeks
old.

Also I have a 45 side-draft weber which i had wanted to put on but i
understand that cos the weber doesnt have vaccume regulated fuel it may very
well run like poo at low revs.  Is this true in reality and how poo does it
run (assuming that if its jetted to "on boost" fuel levels its gonna be
spitting heaps too much fuel low down)  In a nut shell am is the weber going
to be leages better or too much of a pain and should i just give the SU
looken thing a try.

Thats probably way too much for an email and i will probably end up going to
a dyno tuner to check the car out anyway.  So do you know anyone in town who
knows carby turbo setups and is good and relativly cheap?

Any input at all would be greatly appreciated.

Greg Britton

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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