Dan
I just grabbed a fuse/relay box from a wreckers. it is actually the 10 x 2 fuse box. IE 10 on either side. It has clips on the side for 4 relays. I am going back to the wreckers to grab two more relays as mine only came with two.
I will sub this for the current blade fuse box. I already have a 4 relays system for the engine loom. IE ECCS, IGN, Fuel Pump and coils. I also have another relay group for the headlights. this consists of four relays. one each for the 2 sets of headlights and one changeoever for each set of high/low beams.
The only issue I have is with the new fuse box. The two relays it came with seem to control the box. The box is broken into three sections for the batt/acc and on. The wiring is a little mistifying. Can you email me back with some tips??
I will explain it more when you reply.
cheers dude
Jim
Turbo Boy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Don't worry dude, I wasn't offended, just having a stab at you for your comment. You won't need the ignition coil wire so what you do with it is up to you. I don't think it's constant power as that's the white/red wire. It just powers up the coil when the key is turned to the "on" postion from memory.BIG TIP: Don't take 12V from the starter motor to power anything that the computer controls. When cranking the engine over, the voltage at the starter can drop dramatically and with some aftermarket computers (not sure about O.E.M computers) this will cause the computer to shut down and not fire the injectors or ignition system. i.e. car won't start. Run a nice healthy wire straight from the battery and take 12V from this.If you are going to the wreckers, get a fusible link box (these are connected to +ve battery terminals on all the new cars) as you should fuse any large power source from the battery at the battery. i.e don't want a large power wire shorting out, will probably cause a fire.At the moment I just have the stuff for my aftermarket computer running through the relay box but I will be putting all the relays in there. Big tip, the brown nissan relays are a twin output relay, i.e made for headlights! And there is another colour which is specifically for the horns.Anyway, have a look at the wreckers on any late model efi car and you'll find a veritable smorgastboard of wiring goodies that will really make your install look really professional and functional.CheersDaniel
Jimmy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Danthanx for the great replythat answers everything I need to know. IE I can get rid of he ign coil wire from the ignition switch and maybe use it for something else?I am not sure whether it is sending 12V to the coil or getting power from the coil?? I am guessing the former???If is sending 12V would that be when switch is set to On/START or ACC?if it is 12V constant then I could use it to power some things.Also thanx for the info for the relay box. I am actually right now looking for ways to upgrade the fusebox and that sounds like a good idea.What did you hook up through the relay box? Headlights, wiper, horns??also I am guessing you just grabbed a 12V power feed straight from the starter etc to the relay box and powered them from there?cheers dudeps I did not mean you didn't offer knowledgable advice either. It was the hope of my original post.
Turbo Boy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:I've checked, and what you have seems spot on the money, except the wire which goes to the ignition coil should be black with a blue tracer not the other way around.Black/yellow goes straight to the starter solenoidUse the Black/white to switch on all your relays for pumps, injectors, thermo's etcWhite/red, yes is constant power from the batteryBlue/black is accesoriesFrom your original question,START is black with the yellow tracer andON is the Black with the white tracer.And that should cover everything.A little tip to keep things neat and looking OEM, go and get yourself a relay box from an early 90's model pintara from the wreckers. You'll have to unpick all the old spade connectors but you simply replace 'em with new ones which are about $8 for a packet of 100.I've stuck mine in the glovebox to free up room in the engine bay plus tidy it up. It looks good because all of the realys are genuine nissan ones and it should be cheaper as the holder and the relays only cost me $10 bucks from the wreckers. It comes with a relay holder, cover and 8 relays including a double one for headlights if you want to rewire them.Hope I have enough knowledge to answer your question properly this timeDaniel
Jimmy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:got wiring diagrams galore. I even got one photocopied to a2 size and coloured the wires in their appropriate colours and will get it laminated today. Still doesn't tell me what I just asked. Hoped someone with some knowledge might be able to answer this one. Like Terry etc
Turbo Boy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:I'm gonna be a bit lazy as I've packed up my manual during my move but if you go to Charlottes website : http://www.turbophile.comyou'll find a downloadable wiring diagram for a standard datto under the "technical" sections. Should get you out of trouble.Daniel
Jimmy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:hey guysI just have a few wires with regards to the wiring in a 1600 and conversion to sr20det.Do you have any idea what the five wires from the ign switch are?I am guessing:
black/yellow - starter = start wire
white/red = constant power from batt via starter
blue/black - to fuse box = acc
black/white - to fuse box = on
black/blue - to coil = ??
I don't have the loom in the car so i cannot do the old multimetre test etc
Any help would be great guys
i have to plug two wires in for the loom. START AND ON. which ones would these plug into?
regards
Jim
ps I am actually rewiring the whole car and am going to put all the items on relays and replace the glass fuse box with blade type fuses.
It also seems that I can get rid of most of the wires in the engine bay on the stock loom as there are only a few required for the alt and starter and of course the ones for block, horns, wiper etc etc
Also I do not intend on actually chucking the unused wires as I don't want to destoy the stock loom, just place new wires along side old wires which will be folded out of the way and hidden.
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