White is tempting for all those reasons. I painted my daughters Mazda Capella untinted white and it looks great for a pretty average body.
But my 1600 has a great body, so I think I will go for a dark colour.
I love red and I will paint my 180BSSS red because in my view its the only colour that makes them look any good, with black grill window surrounds etc. 
My preference for the 1600SSS is a high gloss black,  mainly as it highlights the chrome bits (the 1600 SSS has chrome gutter covers), and those rare SSS badges on the boot and rear quarters.  As you can guess, this wont be a daily driven car, so I can put up with the need to keep it clean.      
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2004 7:45 AM
Subject: Re: Repairing Datsun SSS's

Paint it baby-poo brown again... :)
 
White always comes up good mate. Hides dents, runs, birdshit, dirt, everything!!!
I painted my car in paint code CLR-915 and it's soooo bright. Love it!
 
----- Original Message -----
From: rclough
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2004 8:22 PM
Subject: Repairing Datsun SSS's

Some of you may be interested in my preparation for repainting of my 1600SSS.  I've wanted to repaint it since I bought it six years ago.  The original alkyd enamel is in excellent condition, but its that baby's poo brown colour, not attractive, although very distinctive of its "era".
I have stripped everything off the car, except the front and rear suspension. Stripped out all the interior trim, trim glue off the interior panelling, and removed sound deadening from the floor areas. I dug out all the seam sealant around the floor, including the boot.  I sand blasted all the heavy guage sheet metal areas inside the cabin, boot and engine bay.  Sand balasting is a good way to ensure all the old colour is removed from all the crevices, the welded on brackets and tabs, and to ensure the new paint sticks in those hard to sandpaper places.
By hanging plastic drop sheets around the car and standing it on black plastic, I have been able to recover and reuse most of the blasting medium (garnet), using my trusty garage vacuum cleaner.  My sand blaster is a "Supercheap" $22 model and its going fine in these cold, dry conditions using a water trap and 90PSI pressure .  It was not good in humid summer climate, as I found out when I tried to start the job earlier in the year.  The expanding air caused water to form in the gun, blocking the sand suction tube regularly.  
I have found with practice I can blast off the top coat and leave the undercoat in most flatter areas.  I use a breathing mask to ensure I dont suck in too much of the dust and garnet.
I have sprayed a first coat of etch primer and a second coat of primer/filler.  If you sandblast, make sure you suck all the sand out of every body crevice before painting, otherwise it will blow out when you spray on the paint, leaving a gritty finish. I will use the sand blasting method on the door jambs and the door frames, but not the door skins.
I wont sand blast the outer panels as they are thinner and sandblasting could distort them. The exterior paint consition is very good and the panels are perfect, so there is no need to rub back to bare metal outside. 
I am procrastinating about the new colour, it has to be one of the original factory colours, to keep the originality of the car.  I dont have to decide the colour yet as its too cold to paint a top coat in my shed during winter.
In between sand blasting and painting, I have been cutting out the rust in panels on my other project, a 180BSSS. I am chopping out replacement body sections to weld back into the rust removed areas.
The 180BSSS doesn't have a great body like my 1600SSS, but it was free and I like the challenge of rebuilding it to give me a Datto that I dont mind flogging in a bit of motor sport!  I have just found a good Datrally engine to add to my collection, so I'm feeling motivated to get them both going (and get rid off a heap of parts and panels stored in my shed).

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