cavitation of the water pump due to pulley diameter too small? Also cheaper
pumps have flat fins bent out of sheet metal, better ones have cast fins
(vanes ) which are curved and are more efficient.

Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Errol Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2005 8:22 PM
Subject: RE: CA18det cooling problem


> Mark,
> Could this all be due to the location of your temperature sender? Is it
> in the stock position at the front oulet of the engine?
>
> Cheers
> Feral Errol
> www.datrats.com.au
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mark F
> Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2005 4:40 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: RE: CA18det cooling problem
>
>
> The saga continues..
> I got my radiator modified so that the inlet and outlet are on opposite
> tanks and put it back into the car.. Again the temp still sits at 90
> degrees. It used to creep up to 100 but this isn't so bad anymore.. I
> then thought I would try a standard 1600 radiator with my old 11" thermo
> on it. I figured if this kept the temp at around 82-85 degrees then it
> would just prove my alloy radiator is a piece of shit.. No such luck,
> the temp still sat on 90 and was more keen to move up towards 100 than
> it was originally. The good news is I don't seem to be losing water
> anymore, I think it might have just been a problem with the old design
> of the radiator.. Last night I put the alloy rad back in and took out
> the thermostat. Apart from taking a while to heat up things are a lot
> nicer. The temp will eventually creep up to around 80 but then I can
> turn the fan on and the temp drops back to 70.. With the fan constantly
> on it generally stays on 70 degrees. I plan to buy a genuine Nissan
> thermostat and see if the temp can stay cooler than 90. I bloody hope so
> because I am running out of ideas! Is it strange that without a
> thermostat the temp can still get up to 80?? I thought it would stay
> cooler than that but hopefully this is normal..
> Thanks,
> Mark
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Terry Rudd
> Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2005 6:56 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: RE: CA18det cooling problem
>
> Mark,
>
> At this time of year you could take the thermostat out for a week or so
> and see what happens. To lose 1/4 radiator over a period of time would
> generally not have much to do with the thermostat - mostly they fail to
> attain their set temperature any way, rarely do they jam in the shut
> position.
>
> If you radiator checks out then I suspect you are losing coolant into a
> combustion chamber as that amount of loss would be very evident if it
> was external. If you suspect that this is the case, you could throw a
> can of Goss Chemiweld into it -  that stuff will seal up fairly bad
> cracks in an alloy head like new. Even if an engine runs hot due to a
> failing component eg radiator, water pump etc, unless there is excessive
> pressure i.e. >15 psi and the cap cracks and water dumps into the
> recovery bottle, then the water should stay in the system and at least
> most of it return from the recovery bottle on the cool down cycle.
>
> Regards,
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mark F
> Sent: Thursday, 17 February 2005 11:39 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: RE: CA18det cooling problem
>
>
> The thermostat isn't a Nissan item, but I have tried 2 different 82
> degree thermostat now and I still get these symptoms...
> - the engine warms up from 0 to 90 degrees very quickly.. In other cars
> I have had they haven't warmed up as quick as this one..
> - Once it reaches 90, it will never see below 90 degrees.. If I sit at
> the lights it will start to creep up towards 100, but once I start
> driving again it will come back down to 90.
> - I am losing water.. The same amount each time. It never drops down
> below a particular level, but the amount lost is fairly significant -
> about 1/4 of the radiator..
> - The cooling system never seems to build up much pressure. The overflow
> water is still as fresh as when I put it in there. No coolant has mixed
> in with it because there is never enough pressure in the system to make
> the cap let any water out..
>
> My radiator was a custom made two row alloy one, but the way the inlet
> and outlet were positioned looked like it wouldn't help with efficiency
> because the top inlet was about 10 rows down from the top of the core
> and a baffle plate between the inlet and outlet was a late addition by
> the guy that built it so I have my doubts whether it is stopping the
> water from going straight down to the outlet and bypassing the core...
> Tomorrow I am getting my top outlet moved to the opposite end tank and
> the baffle taken out so I think this should rule out the radiator as a
> problem after I get it back. I also have to get the thermostat housing
> modified to point across the front of the engine towards the other end
> tank.. I will also look at getting a bigger thermofan which will cover
> the whole radiator.. My current fan is a good quality one but only 11"..
>
> If I still am having problems once it is all back together again then I
> will really be looking for some ideas on what could be wrong... Thanks
> for all the help and most importantly - wish me luck! Cheers, Mark
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Heath
> Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 5:40 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: CA18det cooling problem
>
> is the thermostat geniune nissan?
> mine came over from japan with a 88deg
> i put in a 82deg out of the CA16 pulsar because i used the different
> thermo outlet as well, i run a cross flow style radiator (not same side,
> as
> standard)
> the radiator guy next door said only use geniune thermostat's as the
> tridon and others are shit! u should see my old EA it's got a 93deg
> thermo as standard you should see the temp go up and down as the
> thermostat opens and closes
>
> have you had the radiator cleaned out, properly with a tank off and they
> push blades through the fins. to clean them. when the thermo opens on my
> CA the top hose gets quite hard. and i notice that the temp slowly
> drops.
>
> heath
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Tuesday, 15 February 2005 7:13
> Subject: Re: CA18det cooling problem
>
>
> > Thanks for the ideas guys..
> > I had a theory that maybe my headgasket is leaking water into one of
> the
> cylinders
> > because it would maybe explain why the water always falls to about the
> level of the top
> > hose.. Is there any way to check this?? I am getting a fair bit of
> black
> watery stuff out
> > of the exhaust but not all the time which is strange..
> > I am fairly sure my water pump is operating fine as when you rev the
> motor
> you can
> > see the coolant flowing out of the fins inside the radiator.. The
> > thermostat i have reads 82 degrees on it so i'm assuming it is
> right.
> > The motor runs well up to about 4500 rpm where it starts to misfire. I
> think that is just
> > my dirty plugs though..
> > I have checked the spark plugs before and 3 and 4 seem to be a lot
> blacker
> then 1 and
> > 2, but i would have assumed water in there would make them a rusty
> type
> color..
> >
> > Any more help would be great.. Is it safe to drive around??? Thanks,
> > Mark
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Errol Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > >
> > > Firstly I assume you have the correct thermostat for the engine and
> it
> > > is in working order. Check you dont have an alaskan winter rated 90C
>
> > > thermostat.
> > >
> > > The following cooling system test is suitable for all engines.
> > >
> > > On the inlet side for coolant flow back into the block/head, fit the
>
> > > cap end of a 1.25 or 2 litre coke bottle into the hose on the block
> inlet
> > > side. Cut out the base of the coke bottle to make it like a funnel
> and
> > > fit the heater return line into the top of the funnel section. You
> may
> > > have to make an extension hose up to carry these tests out. Half
> fill
> > > the funnel with water, then holding the bottle up, remove any air
> from
> > > the radiator cap. There should be sufficient water in the funnel so
> the
> > > coolant level remains relatively stable with the engine running. Top
>
> > > the coolant level in the funnel up with additional water to maintain
>
> > > the coolant level in the funnel at a constant level.
> > >
> > > Bring the engine to a constant operating temperature. To test water
> > > pump pressure raise the coolant delivery hose into the funnel so the
> coolant
> > > from the heater return line falls in an arc into the top of the
> funnel.
> > > At approximately 800 rpm idle, the hose should be able to be raised
> 450
> > > -600 mm before coolant flow stops. This indicates a coolant pressure
> of
> > > approximately 1 psi. If the flow level falls below 300mm before flow
>
> > > stops, the pump is not providing sufficient pressure for the system
> and
> > > the pump must be replaced.
> > >
> > > Next look for pump cavitation by running the engine at 2000 rpm and
> > > looking at the changes that happen to the coolant. If it goes opaque
> or
> > > cloudy like the head on a freshly poured beer, you have some
> > > cavitation. If the cavitation is bad, large bubbles will appear in
> > > the funnel rather
> > > like the aerator bubbles in a fish tank.
> > >
> > > If you have either symptom you should look at the water pump type
> you
> > > are using and the pump drive speed. Often by slowing the pump or
> > > removing some pump blades or cutting them back, these symptoms will
> > > dissapear.
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > Feral Errol
> > > www.datrats.com.au
> > >
> > > Basically the thermostat opens at 82 degrees, but my car will warm
> up
> > > to
> > > 90 and stay there whilst driving but sit at the lights for a little
> bit
> > > and it gets up near 100 with the thermofan on.
> > > Even when cruising at 80 kmph it won't run any cooler than 90. It is
>
> > > an Alloy two row radiator with similar dimensions to the std
> 1600
> > > one, and it runs a recovery style cap with a recovery tank.. The
> > > recovery tank never has hot water in it. There is never enough
> > > pressure to let water into the recovery tank even though the temp is
> so
> > > high.. It has me very confused.
> > > Also another strange thing is that the level of water in the
> radiator
> > > always seems to drop to the same level (around the height of the top
> > > outlet) whenever you let the car cool down. You can fill it up to
> the
> > > top when its cold but then once you drive it and then take the cap
> off
> > > again the next day it is low again!
> > > The oil is still oily and the water is still watery so I don't think
>
> > > it's a head gasket.. Any other ideas or suggestions??
> > > I have been told to try a bigger thermo but if it wont even cool
> down
> > > to
> > > near 82ish when I'm cruising at 80 then how will a bigger thermo
> help??
> > > Cheers,
> > > Mark.
> > > Ps I have tried two different temp gauges they both told the same
> > > story..
> > >
> >
> >
> >
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>
>
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