Mohit,
Fitting the FJ into a 1600 is not rated as an easy conversion by any means -
the average cost for eg to do a 1600 legal etc in Aus is also quite high,
rewards once done are something else but you had better have access to good
resources to get it running. Here's a post in 2000$ that's been a guide for
some time now. The Wilkins fitting kit comprises modified xmember
(reversed), engine mounts, stabiliser bar, shortened tail shaft (I have the
length around here someplace if you need to know) or I could measure mine
but not tonight.
Re-posted as requested on 17/5/2000
terry,
could you please dig up that costing breakdown bc I reckon there would be a
few of us out there interested
thanks
andrew
Terry & Heather wrote:
I have gathered some information over a period of time that details what it
costs to build a street legal 510 with one of the popular turbo engines.
Let's say we have a bog stock straight bodied road regd. 510 and are looking
at converting it with an FJ20DET. I picked the FJ simply because it is the
only engine I have installed myself from go to whoa.
Note. Any Nissan Turbo would be a fairly similar outlay engineering wise,
you would need to adjust the purchase price of the particular engine.
Here is a run down if you and your mates do most of the work using some 2nd
hand parts (wreckers prices, U-Pulls tend to be cheaper on some things) and
buying some fairly mid range quality bits that this sort of conversion
deserves and most engineers require for "that" important piece of paper.
FJ20DET non intercooled complete with standard computer & 5 speed box $2300
- $2600
Upgrade to standard factory intercooled $200 - $300
Fitting kit (exchange tailshaft & xmember) $700; add $200 for outright or
DIY ~$200
N13 Pulsar alloy radiator 2nd hand $100 - $125, new $250 - $300
Front Brake Upgrade using solid rotors: e.g. 200B:
2nd hand struts complete $100 - $200
Lowered springs & GT gas inserts and wheel alignment $300 - $800 (>
quality)
Machine discs & new pads (standard) $100
Upgrade to 180B SSS Tokico or Nabco dual 3/4" master cylinder and Bendix
booster $100 - $150
Optional Front Brake Upgrade using vented rotors:
(i.e. for NSW using Verada rotors & VL Commodore callipers, need 74 mm
late 180B struts) $500
Exhaust:
factory turbo exhaust flange & down pipe $50
3" average quality to xmember & 2.5" tailpipe, cat convertor & turbo
muffler $500 - $1000 (> quality)
Rear axle:
R180 open differential & half shafts $200 e.g. C210 Skyline 3.9:1
Electrics:
Relocate battery to boot in approved manner (fixed & vented box if
standard type open vent battery used) with single cable to engine bay $130
Miscellaneous relays and wiring, connectors etc. $200
Fuel System:
Surge tank & HP Pump $100 - $250 (bit of a range here, Gazelle pump in
tank is cheap & effective, 2nd hand HP Bosch (VL) & separate surge tank
~$100 & $120 respectively, complete combined unit ~$200)
LP pump, relay & HP fuel lines $75 - $100
Wheels & Tyres:
4 x 2nd hand basic 5.5"x14" Skyline steel rims $50
4 x 2nd hand 185/65 or 195/60 < 1/2 worn $100 - $250+ (quality imports
are around $60 per tyre)
Engineering:
Big range here and varies by State a lot, min is ~$500 to $1200+
(thieves), ballpark is ~$750
Sundry Items:
Accelerator cable, remote brake bits, hoses, plugs, filters, oil etc.
etc. ~$300
The cost for "red ($3775) + common green" ($2380) highlighted items: $6155
The cost for "blue ($6125) + common green" ($2380) highlighted items: $8505
What have I missed: $???
Extras: (not an exhaustive list, just some popular upgrades)
Mags & tyres $1300
Aftermarket ECU ~$1300 (Wolf 3D)
Lights, CD, Amp ~$1000
Seats & Interior ~$500+ (fairly basic seats)
Respray $1,200 - $5000+
Rear discs (R31) ~$300
Nolathane bushes ~$300
Tinted glass 3M ~$250
LSD ~$1200
Dyno time: ~$60 /hr
Adjustable front end (castor rods & camber plates) ~$500
That 'll do for starters, I think any prospective 510 Turbo convertors will
get a bit of an idea from this and you can see why the L series is still
very popular and will more than likely always continue to be so and there's
nothing wrong with that (IMHO).
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mohit K. Autar
Sent: Wednesday, 2 March 2005 12:48 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Stewart Wilkins fitting kit
Hi guys,
i will be also fitting a fj20 in my datto.i was thinking that i only have to
turn the cross member around.do i have to do anyother modification also.
mohit.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ignacio Sandejas
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 1:32 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Stewart Wilkins fitting kit
The fitting kit will be reversed. If you look at the mounting points for the
arms they are reversed.
Iggy
On 2/3/05 12:08 PM, "Richard Frank" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hey people
>
> I have an fj 20 to go into my 1600 i have a sw fitting kit - well the
> other day i pulled my engine crossmember out and put the two
> crossmembers together -i thought they were supposed top be differewnt
> or at least the sw crossmember to be modified -they looik exactly the
> same -now im confused
>
> help please
>
> thanx
> Leighton
>
>
>
>
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