Craig's my brother i'll ask him if he wrote the info on the dizzys,
Mark.           I got my dizzy recurved to 16 static,34  total advance

>>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 03/08/05 9:57 pm >>>
Daniel,
 
Here's an old post that's been used by many ppl on this list over the
years
- written by Craig Overend? (I think so anyway.)
 
Regards,
Terry
 
 
Installing a Blue Bird Series II Electronic Distributor 
Into Your L Series Engine.

Obtaining The Distributor. 


The First thing is to find the distributor. After hunting around
Melbourne
for a while I ended up calling Nissan wreckers. People have said its
possible to get them at places like "Pick A Part" but I wouldn't trust
this
because there is no warranty on any of the parts and its very rare that
the
distributors are still in the Bluebird by the time they make it there.

Your best bet is to call wreckers, I live in the south eastern suburbs
in
Melbourne so the best place for me to start was in Moorabbin, due to
the
large number of wreckers off Warrigal road. The first place I called
was
Datt/Niss wreckers down in Cheltenham. They quoted me $175 for one but
when
the guy went looking for one found out they were all broken. My next
call
was Nisscar which is down off South Rd. Anyway they wanted $185 which
was
the full distributor including the Cap ( I know they are cheap but its
nice
to get the whole distributor ). Also it had a thirty day warranty which
is
nice. I can hear you now saying "Why pay so Much ?" Well when you
consider
that these distributors from Nissan new are $300 or so, I thought
seeing I
get the same warranty as Nissan I could almost get it for half price.
I've
heard people have obtained them for as low as $50 from a wrecker who
doesn't
know there thing but I'd spent awhile looking around and not finding
one I
thought $185 wasn't to bad. 


 Other Parts Required 


Ok so you've obtained ur distributor from where ever. Now you have to
change
your coil over from the points type to the new electronic type. This
will
cost you about $50. I recommend and so do most ignition places for
that
matter, the Bosch coils, simple because the Series II Distributor is
Bosch
made. The model number is HEC275. 
Now the other thing you have to decide is do you want to hook up the
Vacuum
Advance system from the Dizzy to the manifold. If your running a stock
manifold this is easily done, but if your running a DatRally manifold
like
my self for a set of Twin Webers then your in a bit of trouble because
the
only way to get the vacuum from the manifold is via the brake line
which
runs to my brake booster. Now I can hear you saying, "But what happens
if
the piping breaks, you've lost your brakes. Well I solved this problem
because on the hose I have a One Way Valve which means if my pipe
breaks
then there is still pressure until I turn the car off which means I can
then
fix it. 
The best way to break into the brake line is to get a T-Piece. It took
me a
little while to find the right brace piece but I eventually did at a
Hydraulic Fittings place called Purple Pig. It cost me $18 which is
pretty
expensive but considering I'd just spent $235 all up so far, I thought
another $18 was well worth it for the car to run super smooth whilst
idling
even with a lumpy cam. This T-Piece has the top bit with the larger
brass
pipe and then the smaller fuel line piping which I run from there to
the
vacuum advance on the distributor. 


Installing The Distributor. 


Ok so your home with your new ( oh well close to in my case )
distributor
and its time to spend about 1 hour putting it all in and hooking it up.

Here is a list of what you will need: 
-10mm open end or ring spanner. 
-Wire clippers. 
-Wire strippers. 
-Cable joiners. 
-Pipe clamps ( if installing vacuum advance ). 


Removing The Old Distributor 


Before you start its my advice that you take note of how the old
distributor
was placed in relation to timing on the distributor housing on the
block.
Mark this with a pen or what ever, I actually found that if you look on
the
base of the Bluebird distributor and u will see 2 metal lines which
mark the
approximate middle of the distributor. I actually installed the
distributor
with this in the centre and it worked perfectly, even with my custom
head
and cam etc. 
Ok well grab ya 10mm spanner and undo the two bolts which hold in the
old
distributor. Take the cap of the points distributor but leave the
Distributor leads attached for later on. Put your old distributor aside
and
grab the electronic one. Put the new one in and put the two bolts back
in
and adjust the distributor so its approximately cantered. Do the bolts
up
firmly but not tightly so you can still turn the distributor when you
start
the engine. 


Wiring It Up. 


Ok so the dizzy's in, now its time to do the wiring, this is were
people
seem to panic but I actually found it the easiest part of the
installation.
The two wires coming out of the distributor are pink and green.
Firstly
don't disconnect the 2 wires connected to ballast resister, just leave
them
connected for the moment. Also while your at it remember which wires
went
onto the positive side of the coil and what went onto the negative. 
Now mount the new coil ( which ain't a cylinder unfortunately ) but ur
old
holes should fit the new mounts. Now the PINK attaches to the positive
bolt
on the coil and the GREEN on the negative. Once this is done, put the
double
adapter on top of the positive+ and on the negative- because if you
have a
Tacho you will have to hook it backup. 
Once this is done take the two wires off the Ballast Resistor and cut
the
connectors off, strip the wires and join the two wires together. From
there
connect the positive wire to the positive side of the coil. Now there
should
be one connection left over, this is simple an earth from what I can
tell so
don't bother connecting it up. If you forget what your positive wire
was
don't stress, simple connect one up to the negative side of the coil
and try
and start the car. Now if it starts then you have the right one
connected,
if not don't worry it doesn't hurt the distributor in anyway because
its
just an earth, so connect the other wire and you should be in business.

The car should start first go, ( I can't believe how well it starts ).
It
may idle rough, this is were you adjust the distributor, just basically
make
it so it idles pretty quick then do the bolts up. You can do the timing
now
on your new distributor if you don't plan to hook up the vacuum
advance. If
you do plan to use the vacuum advance, hold on there is a little more
work
to be done. 


Hooking Up The Vacuum Advance. 


Ok so your pretty pleased with your self because the car starts, well
its
time to make it idle smoother than you've ever experienced via the
Vacuum
Advance. Now grab the brass fitting I told you about. In my case the
Brake
Vacuum line runs from the Brake Booster, over the rocker cover and into
the
pipe coming out of the manifold. Well on the pipe, about 10-20cm after
the
brake booster I have my one way valve installed so prevent brake
failure (
hopefully I haven't tested this yet). So my advice is where the pipe
runs
over the rocker cover, cut the Brake Vacuum line in half. Put the
brass
T-Piece in and use the Hose clams to keep it tight. From there connect
the
thin pipe ( the fuel line ) to the T-Piece and running it to the
vacuum
advance on the distributor. Use another 2 hose clams to keep it in
place.
Just a little note, its prolly worth trying to keep it off the rocker
cover
so it doesn't melt. Once this is done, start the car and check that
the
brakes still work, ull know if they don't because they will be ROCK
Hard.
Another note, make sure if you take our your one way valve that you put
it
back in the right way. I didn't and it caused me about 40minutes of
heart
ache, wondering why the hell my brakes didn't work anymore. 


Setting the timing. 


Well your nearly home and hosed with your new dizzy. Now all that's
left is
to do your timing, well most people know how to do this, if you don't,
take
it to ur local mechanic and get him/her to do it for you. JUST
remember, if
your gonna take it to ur mechanic, tighten those bolts for the
distributor
right up so the dizzy doesn't start rotating on you whilst you drive to
the
mechanic. 


All Done. 


 Ok so its all done, well now your car should start a whole lot better
on
the cold mornings due to the stronger spark and other factors. There
should
also be more torque when getting away, and if you were to put it on a
dyno,
a smoother torque curve. Also there will be a power improvement on the
dyno.
Not much but it will be a nicer car to drive all round. Most mechanics
/
auto electricians reckon its one of the best things to get more
noticeable
power out of your Datsun.
<http://www.directone.com.au/~schu/tech/index.html>  

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of daniel
foster
Sent: Tuesday, 8 March 2005 7:27 PM
To: [email protected] 
Subject: electronic ignition



hi guys 

im thinking of putting a series 2 bluebird electronic dissy on my
worked L18
and was wondering if it is a straight bolt on project or if i have to
get
something altererd on the dissy. And can any one tell me of a good
plugs,
leads and coil combination for my engine

any help apreciated  




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