W124.  I did it myself -- flushed the condenser and emptied the compressor, 
refilled with 6 oz of PAG 46 per the Nippondenso recommended oil.  Had been 
"converted" before by dumping in some ester oil, I suspect, and screwing on a 
conversion fitting, but only on the low side.

Since I was replacing a bad compressor, I changed all the o-rings except the 
ones on the expansion valve as it was holding pressure just fine and working 
well so long as the compressor would stay on, but if you are doing this job 
under reasonable time constraints rather than attempting to get a car on the 
road for a trip in limited time, I would also change those and flush the 
evaporator with commercial flush solvent.

An amazing amount of crud blew out of the condenser -- the expected "aluminum 
paint", but also a big slug of brown slops, so I expect I have good performance 
due to a clean condenser (which, for those who advocate new parallel flow 
units, IS a parallel flow condenser).  Use only a proper flush solution, not 
some available solvent like brake parts cleaner (hexane and dry isopropyl 
alcohol will work, but the commercial ones are better).

You can also replace the expansion valve with one from the years where R134a 
was stock -- I believe they are slightly different, with the later one giving 
better slow speed performance than the one for R12.

And, if you are going to all this effort, get a new shaft seal and mainfold 
o-rings for the compressor.  Doesn't take long to replace them, and you will 
have essentially a new system.  Do NOT use green o-rings from an assortment for 
the manifold seals, inner or outer -- the proper ones are black rubber and 
don't fit like you would expect (they have to be forced into the recess, they 
don't fit loose).  Yeah, they cost $4 and something each, but the green ones I 
found on my brother's SDL compressor (now happy in my 300D) were flattened, 
hard, and showed signs of erosion from escaping hot gasses.....

Peter



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