When you are done, would you figure out why my dash light/right tail/right front marker light fuse keeps blowing? :)
Luther, thinking finding wiring problems is like looking for a needle in a hay stack.... Jim Cathey wrote: > Yesterday I finally got a chance to tackle the battery discharge > problem in Jill's 560 SL. I'd already convinced myself it wasn't an > alternator charging prohblem. (I've been putting the car on charge > most nights for months now.) I suspected one of the two alarms, or > the stereo to be at fault. (Though it could be almost anything, > including the clock, radio antenna, or dome light system.) I pulled > apart the main power supply terminal under the hood and determined > that there was no parasitic load except through the main feed wires to > the fuse box. When I disconnected the keyless entry/alarm system and > powered up the car it drew some 200 mA once things settled down. > That's fairly hefty, over time. When I dug up the fob so I could > reconnect the keyless entry/alarm and shut it up I found that it only > seems to draw 10-20 mA itself: not so bad. Removing the faceplate of > the stereo did nothing to change the draw. I removed the floor panel, > but the factory alarm wasn't under there so I couldn't disconnect it. > I mis-remembered, it's behind the glove box according to the ETM. > (The lamp-out warning module is what's under the floor panel.) I ran > out of time to continue chasing that morning, however. > > Jill also reports that the headlights spontaneously go out sometimes. > That's not good, and it keeps her from wanting to drive the car. > Combination switch? I've seen that before, though usually only > when applying a turn signal. > > Today I proved it's not the stereo (removed), or the antenna > (unplugged). But it's on Fuse 12. If the schematic can be believed > that indicates the antenna, trunk light, alarm system, warning module, > courtesy lamps, diagnostic socket, hazard signals, or clock. I > disconnected the alarm, that's not it. I pulled the dome light timer > relay, that's not it either. I checked the visor lights, it doesn't > seem to be them. (Current draw when either was opened was the same, > 950 mA, and together it was about 1600 mA. That indicates that > neither switch was leaking.) I pulled the door switches, no change. > It's not the warning module. (Getting to that was fun.) It's not the > hazard switch. All that's left is the clock, which is difficult to > get to. So I pulled the airbag, steering wheel, and instrument > cluster. It's not the clock! WTF? Supposedly I've gone through > everything on Fuse 12, yet I've found no culprits. The car still > draws 200-350 mA through the fuse. Damn, either somebody added > something (cell phone?) or the schematic's wrong, or there's a > pinched wire. The next step is to pull the fuse box itself and check > the individual wires feeding off of it. That's a drag. > > So I pulled the fuse block. There are two ring terminals screwed to > #12: one a clump of small reds with a red/yellow in it, and another > clump of small reds with a red/white in it. The culprit is in the > red/white clump, though I ran out of time to chase it further than > that. The red/white wire itself goes to the diagnostic socket, and > nothing's plugged into it. The car looks a right mess. > > -- Jim _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
