If your rear tires are wearing evenly, just keep an eye on it every 6
months or so. No use doing anything when it is all working
correctly. The common advice is to replace everything at once, then
it should be good for another 15-20 years or so.
The tires were just replaced and wear was even --
Are there any bushings that are easy to replace without pulling
everything apart? Or is it not practical to do things a little at a
time?
thx -
LarryT
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--------------------------------------------------
From: "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 9:17 AM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
Biggest thing to notice is the camber of the rear tires or any
squirrelyness in handling
Thx Loren - my '91 300D just turned 176K so it's time for me to
inspect things around the rear end -
LarryT
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--------------------------------------------------
From: "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 11:43 PM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
My 87 300 D had the lower wheel carrier bushing totally crapped
out at 160K By 180k the links were going bad.
About how long does it take to go thru the rear suspension bushings/etc?
(on the 124).
thx
LarryT
91 300D
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--------------------------------------------------
From: "Peter Frederick" <psf...@earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 5:37 PM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
The 126 is the same as the 123 except for the size. Same
mounts, etc, same hassles.
The W124 is completely different -- multilink suspension (and
you probably need to replace them all) plus four subframe
mounts, two front and two rear (not the same). It can be done
by jacking up the rear and dropping one side at a time, then
using a puller/pusher to remove and install the mounts.
Diff is held on by two steel and rubber inserts in the subframe
at the rear and a pair of rubber mounts between plates up
front. Rear mounts must be removed to the front (they are
tapered and won't come out the back) and they are always very
stuck. Best course is to use an air chisel to collapse the
steel ring to get them out, then pull the new ones in. You
can hang the diff on a jack while you are doing this and leave
the axles installed.
This is a job I was going to tackle on the old 300D when it got
smashed, and will be doing next month on the new one (and an
evaporator transplant, oh joy!)
Peter
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To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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_______________________________________
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To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
_______________________________________
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
_______________________________________
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To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
_______________________________________
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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