I used a paint stripper
You should probably recoat the board, since it is made of phenolic
resin, which is hygroscopic.
Using a solder sucker (or desoldering braid) and a 25w or smaller iron
is a good idea. The old solder and flux isn't the best stuff and is
hard to get to reflow and have a good joint as the result. Get the old
stuff off and rework it with new solder. (You don't need 100% of it
gone but you want at least 80-90% gone so that the new solder doesn't
get contaminated)
You should also replace the few electrolytic capacitors that are in
there.
I did that with one and then recoated it and it was still going years
later when the car got totalled.
I would love to build a bench test rig for the servo and the amp...
--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On Mar 24, 2010, at 11:40, "Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,
53310" <meade.m.dil...@navy.mil> wrote:
Thanks for your write-up and advice. What is the best way to strip
off
the varnish? I didn't notice any corrosion, but will keep your wire
brush tip in mind. I have an ancient home-made soldering iron, the
tip
is a little gross for this work, so I need to procure a better iron -
can you recommend a model? I read one site which advised a 25 watt
model. I also need to get a solder sucker.
One site I read cautioned that overheating components like the
integrated circuits was a potential pitfall to a DIY approach. I
did a
lot of soldering in college, so I'm pretty confident I know how much
heat is enough to get a good joint. Do you think any of the
components
on this board are especially sensitive to heat?
Thanks,
Max
-----Original Message-----
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 10:07 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
Congrats! I'm told that the feedback resistance track inside the CC
actuator can get worn, and the jumpy resistance is reflected in
spastic
CC action around that point. Your amp still sounds like it might have
feedback loop problems, that's the problem I always end up with, and
which repeated resolderings takes care of. Go ahead and do the whole
thing, and don't forget the fine wire brushing
(Dremel) of the whole solder side before you start, that takes off
corrosion that might prevent good contact.
-- Jim
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To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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_______________________________________
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
