I'll add one note, because I've BTDT and still haven't put back the lifting eye back in place.
During the re-assembly, at this step: - Reinstall all of the 14 T-40 manifold bolts, giving each one a... Don't forget to re-install the lifting eye at cylinder #6. -Max -----Original Message----- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Craig Sent: Saturday, December 25, 2010 4:13 PM To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] How to spend Christmas eve? On Sat, 25 Dec 2010 13:58:06 -0500 John Reames <jwrea...@comcast.net> wrote: > Looks like I might be (re)doing DV seals; they only seem to last 60-70k > with the ULSD we run now. I guess I need to find the write-up that I > did a few years ago (for the OM606/W210); it was long enough ago that > the good Dr was able to comment. You mean the write-up Loren sent to me? Craig ======================================================================== Applies to OM606 W210.025/OM606.962 delivery valves. Most should apply to OM603 A few weeks ago I was asking about this job... I finished it, and it wasn't that bad (I'm kicking myself for not taking photos though!) It took me less than four hours for this job and that included running out to get the T-40. The 4 hours that the labor guide quotes is generous, certainly... If anyone has any thoughts/comments on this, lemme know. Parts: 7x 603 078 01 41 (Injection pipe clips) 7x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe shims – trim them on one side) 2x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe clips) 1x 606 141 01 80 (Intake manifold gasket OM 606 only, your gasket may vary) 6x 017 997 41 48 (Bosch 1-460-210-321 O-ring, you may want spares) 6x 004 997 45 40 (Bosch 1-410-105-021 Copper seal washer) (These are the same rings as used on a 602 or 603 engine.) Optional: 6x 001 074 34 93 Delivery valve spring. Tools: - 8mm socket or nutrunner - 10mm socket - 6mm hex bit socket - T-30 socket - T-40 socket - 13mm *special* crowsfoot 000 589 77 03 00 - 32/33 spline *special* socket 617 589 01 09 00 - a dental pick or similar to aid in removal of seal rings and washers - some sort of zero residue aerosol cleaner (carb cleaner or electronics cleaner) - Torque wrenches capable of 10Nm -> 35Nm - A box of rags (like the ones they sell at home depot, "Scott" Brand) misc extensions and ratchets and adapters (3/8-1/2 bushing, 3/8-1/4 reducer), a can of clean oil (I used clear fine machine oil) or diesel fuel Instructions: - The first thing you want to do is jack the car up and remove at least the middle underpan (8mm hex head 4 places) - You will need to remove the bolt fastening the charge air cooler pipe to the EGR valve on the bottom of the intake manifold (Mine was missing!) as well as the clamp holding the EGR tube to the manifold/EGR valve (10mm bolt). - Put the car back down on the ground and remove the plastic over-shield on the valve cover (6mm hex bit, 8 screws) - Now is a good time to clean all the accumulated gunk off the top of the engine while everything is still closed up. - Remove the two 10mm bolts securing the oil separator to the top of the engine (over #5 injector) and carefully remove the separator and breather tube. (You might want to stick a bit of rag into the open tube ends on the engine) - Remove the T-40 head manifold bolts (14 places, I think). There is one hiding under the lifting eye back by #5 or #6. - Gently lift the manifold free, disconnecting the vacuum control line and the boost pressure sensing line from the valve. Be cautious of the little plastic clamp on the boost line. You may want to fill the manifold with some cleaner to let it soak while you work - Carefully slide the intake manifold gasket out (to the front of the engine), noting its orientation. - Stuff CLEAN lint-free rags into each intake ports and the intercooler pipe to keep crud out of them. - Clean off the top of the injection pump (carb cleaner, etc). - Make a diagram of where the injection lines go, and more importantly, how the various clips attach to them. Take note of how the first two lines run around the low pressure fuel and injection bypass hoses. - Remove all of the clips from the injection lines. 80% or more will likely break. - Loosen the injection line nuts and remove the injection lines. The special crowsfoot (13mm) above really makes it much easier on the engine side. - Remove the three T-30 screws that secure the delivery valve lock rings to the injection pump. Take note of how the lock rings are laying on the pump. - Remove all of the lock rings. - Clean the top of the IP again -- pay special attention to around the delivery valves. *** - Using the special spline socket, loosen the first delivery valve holder. Unscrew it by hand and SLOWLY lift the valve holder, being careful to not let the spring get lost/drop out or pull the valve from inside the pump. - Use the (CLEAN) pick to remove the copper seal ring from the top of the assembly that was under the valve holder. - Carefully lower a new copper seal ring onto the assembly. Try to keep the ring and assembly more or less centered within the bore - Remove the O-ring from the outside of the valve holder. Use carb cleaner or similar to clean all the crud off the outside of the body (don't flush it inside!) - Fit a new O-Ring onto the delivery valve body. Put a few drops of oil on the threads of the valve and on each side of the O-Ring, ensuring that the ring is well-oiled. - Thread the delivery valve body into the IP by hand, being cautious of the valve assembly and the spring. (The spring should seat on top of the valve assembly into the pump), and the O-ring should not be pinched. - Using a torque wrench and the spline socket, torque the delivery valve holder to 30Nm (22 ft-lb). - Loosen the valve body maybe 1/8 turn (just enough to remove the torque/pressure) and re-torque to 30Nm/22ft-lbs. - Repeat the above step (This makes 3x torquing to 30Nm/22ft-lbs) - Torque an additional 5Nm/4ft-lbs (This makes 35Nm/26ft-lbs in 2 stages) - Repeat the above ten steps (from the *** mark) for the remaining delivery valves. If any don't look right or feel right, or you just aren't sure if it's right, remove it, inspect the O-ring for pinches/tears and do it over. It's easy to do right now. - After finishing all the valves, replace the lock rings, I think a decent order to place the on is: 1-3-2-5-4-6, making sure that the holes all line up for the retaining screws. - Reinstall the retaining screws (T-30), making sure to "pre-load" the lock rings to prevent loosening of the valve holders). Torque to 10Nm/7ft-lbs. - Remove all of the rubber shims from the injection line brackets. Use one of the old shims as a pattern to trim the new ones before installing the new shims. - Replace the injection lines. Where the pipes run together in pairs, the odd number cylinder one should lay on top. Do not tighten the nuts yet. Make sure that the low pressure fuel lines and bypass hose is routed properly. - Install all of the new clips (easier said than done, but a straight screwdriver and a rubber mallet make it a little easier to install them). - Torque all of the injection line nuts to 23Nm/17ft-lbs. - Remove the rag bits for the oil separator and reinstall-Torque to 10Nm/7ft-lbs. - You may want to clean the top of the engine a bit more here.... - Remove the rag bits from the intake ports and clean the gasket mating surface. Ensure that no bits of rag tor off in the ports, etc. - Slide in the new manifold gasket, making sure to place it in the same orientation as the old gasket. - Remove the rag from the intercooler pipe and gently lower the manifold back into place. It is easier to reattach the vacuum and pressure lines before bolting in the manifold. - Ensure the manifold, gasket, and head are all properly aligned. Using a bolt near each end usually helps keep things in place. - Reinstall all of the 14 T-40 manifold bolts, giving each one a light coating of anti-seize lubricant. After all are installed, torque them to 20Nm/14-15ft-lbs, double checking the torques after all are torqued. - Reinstall the EGR tube clamp, it is possible to place it so the bolt is accessible from above/beside the manifold. - Clean the top of the engine (the injection pipe nuts especially) and the top of the injection pump with a quick-drying spray solvent, so we can see any leaks more readily. - Jack the car again and reinstall the intercooler pipe to EGR bolt (torque to 20Nm/14-15ft-lbs). - Reinstall the underpans. - Lower the car. - To bleed the injection lines, depress the accelerator to the floor while holding the key in the start position. After 40 seconds, stop, and let the starter cool for 5 minutes or so. Repeat until the car starts and runs. Run the car (1200rpm or so) until it smooths out (this will make sure that all the air is out of the lines.) It will sound like crap for 5 minutes or so. - Let the car run for several minutes and check for fuel leaks at the top of the injection pump and around the injection pipe nuts. Hopefully, there are no leaks. - Reinstall the valve cover over-shield, torquing the 8 bolts to 10Nm/7ft-lbs. - Close the hood and clean up! - Attempt to convince your spouse that you can now afford some expensive new toy with the money (probably close to $450 after allowing for the two special sockets) that you just saved! (Let me know how well you fare in that Endeavour!) "John W. Reames III" <jwrea...@comcast.net> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Nice writeup. One caution. Even if you torque the delivery valves PERFECTLY, they might still distort the injection pump body. That will cause noise (and damage if not promptly corrected) and result in incorrect/uneven fuel delivery. The cure is to loosen and re-torque the delivery valve for the cylinder that's misfiring. valve. Even experienced pros using a torque wrench seem to distort the pump maybe 1 out of 10 times (I'm told) and need to loosen and retighten the valve. It may be that the earlier OM60x pumps are more touchy about this than the later ones and I KNOW that the 6 cylinder versions are much worse than the 4 or 5 cylinder pumps. Marshall I did it without removing the intake manifold, 603. I did remove the air pipe form the turbo. Take loose Inj line clips at the bolts. Push the back 3 lines aside, but don’t try to remove them from the manifold with the unbolted holders still clipped to the line. _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
